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- [Fitment Information]: YHTAUTO gas struts can be Compatible with Jeep 2005-2010 Grand Cherokee Laredo, 2005-2010 Grand Cherokee Limited, 2006-2009 Grand Cherokee Overland, 2006-2010 Grand Cherokee SRT8, 2010-2010 Grand Cherokee North Edition, 2010-2010 Grand Cherokee S Limited, 2006-2006 Grand Cherokee 65th Anniversary Edition; Sport Utility — Hood; Please check the description and compatibility chart before you purchase our lift support.
- [Hood Struts Specification]: ①A set of automotive replacement shock lift supports contains 2✖ gas shocks,which come with plastic ball sockets; ②Extended Length: 13.78 inch; ③Compressed Length: 8.78 inch; ④Stroke Length: 5 inch
- [User-friendliness]: Worried about a cumbersome installation process of gas strut? Don’t worry about that. The gas spring is easy to install in minutes just with your hands and simple tools. Moreover, our lift support strut is pre-lubricated, which will bring more convenience when you install the struts.
- [High Performance]: The gas spring lift can perfectly replace 55394472AA, 6304, SG314049, E95327. The lift supports can meet your expectation of a nice gas shock by using advanced materials and QPQ process on the surface. The shocks not only possess strong bearing capacity but also have abrasive resistance, corrosion and rust prevention and high impact resistance
- [Effective Protection]: Every gas piston lift mechanism is equipped with cover shield and special seal and guide system, which can effectively prevent internal gas or liquid leakage and prevent dust or water droplets from entering the internal structure of the gas lift struts during the process of use.
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YHTAUTO Front Hood Gas Struts Shocks Replacement for Jeep 2005-2010 Grand Cherokee, Set of 2 Bonnet Lift Supports
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Informação adicional
| UPC | 700401379032 |
|---|---|
| Manufacturer | YTAUTOPARTS |
| Compressed Length | 8.78 Inches |
| Item Weight | 1.04 pounds |
| Package Dimensions | 15.51 x 2.99 x 2.72 inches |
| Item model number | YHTGS0404 |
| Is Discontinued By Manufacturer | No |
| Manufacturer Part Number | YHTGS0404 |
| OEM Part Number | 55394472AA, 68025360AA, 6304 |
| Date First Available | June 28, 2018 |
George –
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Great product. All I had to do was remove the metal shell, pull off the joint from the ball, and unbolt the ball from the metal with a socket set. Next, i did the same thing to the bottom and then put the new ones in place (i recommend doing the bottom one first). After, I screwed the bolt on the new strut into the hole using a hexagonal screwdriver bit from my mechanics set. I did the same on the top, and on the other side. The trunk stayed up from replacing one, but I REALLY recommend changing both because once one new one is in, the other old one will fail very soon and bonk you in the head. I VERY MUCH RECOMMEND THESE STRUTS!!!
Motofish –
Just installed these, they seem to work well so far. Will update if they don’t work out long term. I like the dust boots they came with and they seem to be built quite sturdy. They lift the rear hatch of our 2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee from nearly closed to fully open, but they aren’t hard to close either. Good balance. Installation is a little more challenging, but it’s really pretty easy to do.
Disclaimer: the specifics here apply to my 08 Jeep Grand Cherokee, if you have another year or model i make no guarantees. Also, im not a car mechanic, just a handy DIY type of guy, so your results and or situation may vary.
Tools needed:
In order to install these you will need a medium sized flathead screwdriver, a 13mm deep socket (and ratchet, also a 4 inch extension helps), and a T40 torx socket (or bit). Optional: a 5ft 2×4, vice grips or 1x suitably tall helper to hold open the hatch (1x refers to quantity, not size, though on that topic im a 2x going on 3x these days and had no trouble holding up the hatch… sorry, TMI…).
To start, open the hatch and secure it with 1x suitable helper, the 2×4, or vice grips on the shaft of one of the struts (to keep it open).
To remove the factory struts, use the flathead screwdriver to pry gently under the metal band on each of the ball Sockets at the ends of the struts, while pulling away from the strut mount. Work on replacing one strut at a time to avoid a headache (should be fairly obvious as to why). Also, take note of the orientation of the factory struts and install your in the same orientation. Mine were positioned so the strut body is above the exposed shaft.
Once the strut is removed, use the 13mm socket to remove the strut mounting studs. Then screw the replacement strut studs in place using the T40 torx socket (bit). I highly recommend starting these by hand, as they are easy to cross thread, especially when you do the second one on each side (due to the strut being extended). I found it easiest to put the top one (on the side of the hatch) in first, so the second one (on the vehicle body) was right in front of me, but you do you.
For the second stud (on each side), it will be necessary to use the hatch as a lever to help get the stud lined up straight, it should thread in easily, if you can’t turn it by hand for at least 1/4″ of threads, you are cross threading it.
When installing the second strut, I used a 2×4 of sufficient length to hold the hatch open, as one strut will not keep it open alone. Here is where it is handy to have a 1x suitable helper (remember, quantity not size, although if helper is smaller than 1x a step stool might be useful…). Use caution, if using the 2×4, as it will fall out when you move the hatch to line up your second stud (another headache alert). I did not use the vicegrips on the new strut, in order to prevent marring of the shaft and subsequent destruction of the inner seal. Once the second stud has been started (at least 1/4″) the hatch should stay open on its own and you can finish tightening them down all the way and/or check them to be sure they are all snug.
If you made it this far, then congratulations! You can make it through an incredibly long and boring post! Oh, and your hatch will now stay open too… yay. Unless you received broken struts in which case you get to undo all your hard work… and then do it again when your replacements arrive… sorry.
Noah Reeves –
Quedo a la primera, muy bien !
dray –
This was for a 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee rear glass strut replacements that were no longer holding up. Installation was easier than anticipated, as after having removing the glass nut thinking it was a necessary step to swap onto new struts, realized after the fact the simplest method was to just remove the tension clip holding strut onto the ball joint. However, those clips are a bit loose and I was able to take them off as easy as snapping on. Since they were just replaced today, I will have to see if they pop off on their own, in which I am considering tightening the clips after removing from ball joint to see if that helps. Since I did not purchase vehicle new, unsure if pressure too high – the glass springs up fairly quickly which makes me more suspect of the hinge falling off ball joint. Otherwise they work very well for the cost and quick receipt of product.
Tinkerer –
Lifter were exact replacement. Only tppk 5 minutes to remove thevold ones and install new ones. Hatch is working like new and lift all the way open now.
George –
Fits easy to Grand Cherokee 2005 5.7, works fine!
crazyredj –
Of course I supervised, but my 9-year-old son installed these on his own. It’s been a few weeks and they’re holding up great.
Amazon Customer –
These tailgate lift supports work great for my 2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee. Super easy to install, took about 5 minutes
Ricque Fann –
It’s a well made product. And saved me a ton of money getting it elsewhere. It doesn’t just snap on like the factory trunk hydraulics do, but I feel that makes it feel more secure.