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- True copper nickel C706 alloy
- It comes as 25′ coils (4 coils)
- Easy to bend and flare
- Will never rust
![Callahan Brake Parts CDS03305 FRONT 256mm Drill/Slotted 4 Lug [2] Rotors + Brake Pads + Clips [fit Aveo Optra Spark Pontiac G3 Wave]](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/71kRebZFadL._AC_SL1200_.jpg)
Callahan Brake Parts CDS03305 FRONT 256mm Drill/Slotted 4 Lug [2] Rotors + Brake Pads + Clips [fit Aveo Optra Spark Pontiac G3 Wave]
*$1,176.90
Power Brake Booster Compatible with Cadillac Calais Deville Fleetwood 1967-1970 Commercial Chassis 1967-1968 Eldorado 1967 7.0L V8 7.7L V8 54-81117
*$1,171.20
Frete Grátis em todo o BrasilProduto Original Importado dos EUA
The Stop Shop 3/16 Inch By 100 Feet Copper Nickel Coils For Brake Line Tubing – 4-25 foot coils
*$1,595.90
Informação adicional
| Brand | The Stop Shop |
|---|---|
| Material | Copper |
| Color | Bronze |
| Product Dimensions | 1200"L x 0.18"W |
| Item Length | 1E+2 Feet |
| Manufacturer | The Stop Shop |
| Specific Uses For Product | Automotive brake line replacement |
| Date First Available | May 17, 2021 |
![POWERSTOP Brake Kit For 2014-2015 Acura ILX, 2003-2007 Honda Accord, Civic CR-V Element [Model Specific] Front OE Replacement Brake Rotors and Ceramic Brake Pads Replacement,...](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/71onTg3tW0L._SL1500_.jpg)
Tanner –
Used the to repair my car break lines. Easy to shape and flare comparing to steel and it will be rust-free. Thanks!
Matt W –
This stuff bends and flares beautifully compared to steel. You can make aesthetically pleasing bends by hand under the hood that look like they were CNC’d. It also takes much less effort to crank down your flare tool and my flares come out great – much more consistent vs. steel. Highly recommend to anyone replumbing all their brakes or just doing repairs.
Eddie B. –
I used this on my ’04 Grand Am to replace the bad quality nickel copper “coated” line by a different Seller that rusted within the week. THIS line is great – bendable by hand, though a bender is inexpensive and will give you the more precise curves and will also straighten bent line. This line replacement was my 1st, so I did forget to put a fitting on. But I had enough line because I estimated generously, to cut it off and add the forgotten fitting to save the day. It was sometimes hard to install, when the fitting wouldn’t slide past a line curve, even a gradual one, so once I knew that, I put the fitting on the line around the final placement, and held it there w/ a plastic zip tie. I also used plastic zip ties to temporarily connect the bad brake line to the good brake line, as I was making curves in it. This helped me to get the line length and the directions of the curves correct, to match the original.
Mirza –
Works as expected. More malleable than steel line. More easily shaped into bubble or double flare. Not tried on car yet.
Oleg Perepelkin –
Thickness 0.028″ & quality of product is consistent as specified. Easy to work without tube bending tool. Will recommend.
Dan –
The copper nickel brake line is very easy to bend and flare. I used it specifically for this purpose (along with its increased resistance to corrosion) to get into tight areas and snake it along the frame bending with my hand as I went. It worked very very well it looks great. If you kink the line or get leaks at your flares it is human error not the product. Replaced another line with steel because it was cheaper and it already has a nice layer of surface rust while the copper nickel does not just a coat of oxidation that wipes off easily. Stainless steel is always superior but is more difficult to bend/flare and is also way more expensive. Recommend using it, and amazon has the cheapest price I could personally find (Canada that is) assuming shipping is free.
Don Fisher –
I was able to buy only 8′ of this line since that was the shortest amount I needed. I was redoing the lines from distribution block to wheel cylinders on a 94 jeep and 8′ was plenty, I had a few feet left over. Obviously be sure to use caution bending the line so that you don’t collapse the pipe in a sharp bend. I made double flares and nothing cracked on me. I purposefully ran bends a bit too “far” up or down so that I had extra material should a flare crack or leak on me. All in all this pipe worked out great and made installation a breeze compared to steel line. Will buy again when I need to do other vehicles.
MC –
What else can I say, received the product I ordered in a timely manner. Product was exactly what I needed and the quality is top notch. Will shop at The Stop Shop in the future for automotive needs.
Eddie B. –
I live in the “rust belt” and needed to replace rusty, worn-out rear brake lines on my 1996 Chevy Blazer. Note, I’m a “backyard mechanic”, although I grew up with a dad that was in the auto business all his life and I know a lot about rebuilding cars from experience and learning from others. Last year, I used the infamous Polyarmor steel lines they carry in major auto parts stores to replace the fuel lines on it and noticed that they already look like they are starting to rust. There’s no way I was using that crap again, so I decided to give this product a try. Amongst this, polyarmor is expensive and I probably would have spent three times as much running new lines to the back. So I wanted something not only better for rust, but a bit cheaper, especially on a 20+ year old vehicle that I don’t want to go overboard dumping money into.
So far, I loved working with this vs. steel lines. It is VERY easy to bend! You can bend these lines by hand and, unless you are making a very sharp turn, you really don’t need a bending tool (although I have one). I’m surprised at how easy it is, and they don’t kink easily, either (even if I made a very sharp turn, these seem nearly impossible to kink). I think you could kink a steel line a lot easier than this product. The easy of pending makes them astronomically easier to route underneath your vehicle and in tight spots in the engine compartment.
These lines are also 10x easier to flare. They’re very easy to make double/bubble flares on vs. hard steel lines. Other people here have mentioned it’s easy to “over flare” these, and I would agree with that somewhat. It takes a bit of practice (especially with hand flaring tools) and you don’t want to use too much line through flaring tool or this could happen. Others here have also mentioned an inconsistency wall size in these. I have noticed it a little during flaring that sometimes a bubble flare would be a bit uneven, but it is hardly a complaint from me. This vs. the ease of use over steel lines can be overseen for me. And they have not leaked whatsoever at my wheel cylinders nor my tee-joint in the rear of the vehicle so they do flare well.
I did a test drive today and the truck brakes perfectly. No leaks, no issues. The real test for me will come within time, if these things corrode over winter or hold up. I will update my review in the future. I am cheering this product on, though. If these hold up well over the winter, then I am going to use them for all future projects where I need hard lines whether for steering, brakes, or fuel lines. I just find it significantly easier to work with vs. steel lines.