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### Módulo Relé de 4 Canais SainSmart: Potência e Versatilidade em Suas Mãos
O Módulo Relé de 4 Canais SainSmart é uma solução robusta e eficiente para quem busca controlar dispositivos eletrônicos de alta potência com facilidade. Este módulo é ideal para projetos de automação, permitindo que microcontroladores como Arduino, 8051, AVR, PIC, DSP, ARM, MSP431 e lógica TTL acionem dispositivos de forma segura e confiável.
Equipado com relés de alta corrente, o SainSmart pode suportar até 10A em AC250V e 10A em DC30V, tornando-o perfeito para aplicações que exigem controle de cargas significativas. Cada canal do módulo requer apenas 15-20mA de corrente do driver, o que o torna extremamente eficiente em termos de consumo de energia. A interface padrão permite uma integração simples e direta com diversos microcontroladores, facilitando a implementação em projetos variados.
Além disso, o Módulo Relé SainSmart conta com LEDs de indicação que mostram o status de saída de cada relé, proporcionando uma visualização clara e imediata do funcionamento do sistema. Essa característica é especialmente útil durante a fase de testes e depuração, garantindo que os usuários possam monitorar o desempenho do módulo em tempo real.
#### Instruções de Uso:
Para utilizar o Módulo Relé de 4 Canais SainSmart, conecte os pinos de controle do módulo aos pinos de saída do seu microcontrolador. Certifique-se de que a alimentação do módulo esteja correta, utilizando uma fonte de 5V. Cada relé pode ser acionado individualmente através de comandos enviados pelo microcontrolador, permitindo o controle de dispositivos como lâmpadas, motores e outros equipamentos elétricos. Utilize os LEDs de indicação para verificar se os relés estão ativados corretamente.
#### Características do Produto:
– Interface de 4 Canais: Permite o controle de até quatro dispositivos simultaneamente.
– Alimentação de 5V: Compatível com a maioria dos microcontroladores.
– Corrente do Driver: Cada canal requer apenas 15-20mA, otimizando o consumo de energia.
– Relés de Alta Corrente: Suporta até 10A em AC250V e DC30V, ideal para cargas pesadas.
– Indicação LED: LEDs para cada canal que mostram o status de ativação dos relés.
– Compatibilidade: Funciona com uma ampla gama de microcontroladores, facilitando a integração em projetos existentes.
### Perguntas Frequentes (FAQ):
Pergunta: O Módulo Relé SainSmart é seguro para uso em projetos de alta tensão?
Resposta: Sim, o módulo é projetado para suportar até 250V AC e 30V DC, tornando-o seguro para controlar dispositivos de alta tensão, desde que as conexões sejam feitas corretamente.
Pergunta: Posso usar este módulo com qualquer microcontrolador?
Resposta: O Módulo Relé SainSmart é compatível com uma variedade de microcontroladores, incluindo Arduino, 8051, AVR, PIC, DSP, ARM e MSP431, facilitando sua integração em diversos projetos.
Pergunta: Como posso saber se o relé está ativado?
Resposta: O módulo possui LEDs de indicação que acendem quando o relé correspondente está ativado, permitindo que você monitore facilmente o status de cada canal.
Pergunta: Qual é a corrente máxima que cada relé pode suportar?
Resposta: Cada relé do Módulo SainSmart pode suportar até 10A, tanto em AC250V quanto em DC30V, tornando-o adequado para uma ampla gama de aplicações.
Pergunta: É necessário um driver adicional para controlar os relés?
Resposta: Não, o Módulo Relé SainSmart pode ser controlado diretamente por microcontroladores, sem a necessidade de drivers adicionais, desde que a corrente de saída esteja dentro dos limites especificados.
Emmaly –
Great with Raspberry Pi!
This thing is super responsive. It’s worth every penny and then some. It’s been a great joy working with it. And the built-in LEDs (one per input/relay) help test the inputs.
How do you use this thing? Connect VCC to +5v. Connect GND to ground. Connect any of IN1/IN2/IN3/IN4 to any of the GPIO/control pins. If the input LEDs don’t light up, be really sure that you have VCC and GND connected correctly. Use a multimeter to verify this if you have one handy (and if not, buy one!). If you want to just test to see if the input works, connect any of the input pins to GND and it should cause the relay to click on and the LED for that input/relay to light up. If you don’t get that, you did the VCC and/or GND wrong.
If you’re using this with a Raspberry Pi, all of these pins (GPIO, +5v, and ground) are on the P1 header. Assuming that the pin up against the P1 marker is pin #1 and the pin across from it is pin #2: +5v is pin #2, ground is pin #6, and then pick any of the GPIO pins. You’ll have to look up the GPIO pins on a Raspberry Pi site since Amazon will strip out any links I put here. For example, GPIO4 is pin #7.
By the way, this product is categorized as a toy but it obviously doesn’t belong in this category. I would like to think that the person at Amazon that will be reviewing my review of this product will notice and do something about it. I shouldn’t hold my breath.
Scott D. Mertz –
I purchased this for the use of an actuator for a fire poofer rig. It worked perfectly more my needs. It does exactly what I needed it for. The control was perfect. Easy to set up and control. It was easy when connecting to my Arduino.. For the price, this thing is MONEY! I loved it!
横浜発信 –
情報が少ないのでお伝えすると
このリレーはそのままではラズベリーパイ やAridomiで利用できません。
これは、ラズベリーパイ などの基盤がGPIOで出力できるのが3vな為です
したがって、このリレーを動かそうとすると5vにアップした出力ができる回路を別途作る必要があります
英語でのコメントにもそのように書いてあります
Rini Boo –
リレ−の反応もよく毎日動作しています
制御用に使いやすい部品です
Jay –
This sketch will stop the Relays from toggling on reset… From arduino serial monitor numbers 0-7 control the relays and print back their state. Here it is, Enjoy!
//From the Serial monitor- 0=Relay 1 off, 1=Relay 1 on, 2=Relay 2 off, 3=Relay 2 on, 4=Relay 3 off, 5=Relay 3 on, 6=Relay 4 off, 7=Relay 4 on
void setup(){
Serial.begin(9600);
//Set all the pins high so they do not toggle on Reset or Power on!
digitalWrite(2, HIGH);
digitalWrite(3, HIGH);
digitalWrite(4, HIGH);
digitalWrite(5, HIGH);
//Set all the pins we need to output pins
pinMode(2, OUTPUT);
pinMode(3, OUTPUT);
pinMode(4, OUTPUT);
pinMode(5, OUTPUT);
}
void loop (){
if (Serial.available()) {
//read serial as a character
char ser = Serial.read();
//NOTE because the serial is read as “char” and not “int”, the read value must be compared to character numbers
//hence the quotes around the numbers in the case statement
switch (ser) {
{case ‘0’:
int pin(2);
digitalWrite(pin, HIGH);
Serial.println(” Relay 1 OFF”);}
break;
{case ‘1’:
int pin(2);
digitalWrite(pin, LOW);
Serial.println(” Relay 1 ON”);}
break;
{case ‘2’:
int pin(3);
digitalWrite(pin, HIGH);
Serial.println(” Relay 2 OFF”);}
break;
{case ‘3’:
int pin(3);
digitalWrite(pin, LOW);
Serial.println(” Relay 2 ON”);}
break;
{case ‘4’:
int pin(4);
digitalWrite(pin, HIGH);
Serial.println(” Relay 3 OFF”);}
break;
{case ‘5’:
int pin(4);
digitalWrite(pin, LOW);
Serial.println(” Relay 3 ON”);}
break;
{case ‘6’:
int pin(5);
digitalWrite(pin, HIGH);
Serial.println(” Relay 4 OFF”);}
break;
{case ‘7’:
int pin(5);
digitalWrite(pin, LOW);
Serial.println(” Relay 4 ON”);}
break;
}
}
}
Professor dot biz –
The entire SainSmart line is well made, very well priced, and extremely functional, a great buy. Note that they also sell many other relays here on Amazon, including solid state. HOWEVER, when Amazon posts videos of guys “handling” the board with chasing LED’s, and lists it as a toy, they are taking on extreme liability as well as endangering folks with less experience.
These little monsters can handle 4x 220x 10A– PLENTY OF POWER TO FRY YOU! DO NOT work with this as you would your 3.3/5 or 12v (low current) microprocessor boards if you’re controllling A/C devices, appliances, etc.! Most folks know this, but for the few that watched the guy’s video with him handling the board like a toy, be aware that you need to COVER AND SHIELD, THEN NOT TOUCH any components using A/C! Holding the business end of the relays is the equivalent of dropping 4 toasters in the bathtub– VERY LIKELY FATAL if you’re using the highest rated capabilities of this device for automation, control, etc. of high powered devices!
Also for beginners, a “sketch” is what Arduino calls code, or a program. Some of this device’s controls require sketches to select function, this is NOT a manufacturing error. Amazon gives a dot rar website in the description (you need to go to the Amazon AWS host of SainSmart to download it, then open it with WinZip– rar is a compressed format. Do NOT download a “rar opener” from a site you don’t know (WinZip is Corel)– they are loaded with trojans, worms and viruses due to embedded zips in the files). The Sainsmart site is ONLY a .pdf schematic, no instructions are provided, but plenty are available if you check YouTube and the forums.
NC and NO selections on this board mean “Normally Closed” and “Normally Open” — there are some reviewers here who apparently didn’t realize that this is a choice with this switch! If one or the other fries your micro or requires code or transistor work arounds, just select the other! Also, there aren’t really two versions, 3.3 and 5, those also are selectable with either components or code– see the schematic for details.
Have fun, but realize this is NOT FOR KIDS if unsupervised by an adult that knows what they are doing!
SKY1 –
Great product, solid, quality build. Notice that the relays are activated by setting the board input pins to LOW, so it doesn’t matter if your micro controller (in my case Raspberry PI 2 B) outputs 3.3v on the pins, because you’re gonna set them to LOW to activate the relays. So make sure your output pins are normally on HIGH, and then set them to LOW when you want the relays activated.
Amazon Customer –
簡単な配線で繋いで使用してます。
どなたか、リレー接点の最大接続、切り離し回数の制限を教えてください。
Rini Boo –
I have been running the Raspberry Pi 3 with this Sainsmart relay module for 6 years 24/7 home automation on my LAN, there has been zero problem. Recently I want to re-write my code to use MQTT cloud and upgraded to Pico W, then I bought another Sainsmart relay module. I read a lot of articles and YouTube videos saying you have to mod it because both Pi 3 and Pico W GPIO output is 3.3V and the easiest way I learned is to short the Sainsmart onboard LED to get that 1.7V difference. Of coz there are other ways. According to the electronic guys, without any mod, the 3.3V GPIO *may* work but it is not reliable. But I tell you, I am not an electronic guy and I didn’t do any mod. My Pi 3 running for 6 years and the relay opens/closes at least 10-15 times a day and I didn’t experience any problem or errors.
For my new Pico W, I just tested it, it’s exactly the same as my Pi 3. Without any mod, I connected Pico VBUS (40) to Relay JD-VCC, then VSYS (39) to Relay VCC, Pico Gnd (38) to Relay Gnd, Pico GPIO 16 (21) to Relay IN1.
I can switch the relay on and off using Python, notice that it’s “Low level trigger” meaning the following MicroPython code will turn on with value 0. You can see the photo, I have the relay LED lit up:
Pin (16, mode=Pin.OUT, value=0)
Even if you don’t take JD-VCC and VCC jumper off and don’t connect Pico VBUS (40), it works fine too. I just want the power isolation.