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Descrição do Produto: Permatex 80333 Muffler and Tailpipe Putty, 4 oz.
O Permatex 80333 Muffler and Tailpipe Putty é a solução definitiva para quem busca reparos duradouros e eficazes em sistemas de escapamento. Este produto inovador é projetado para reparar permanentemente buracos e vazamentos em canos de escapamento, garantindo que seu veículo funcione de maneira eficiente e segura. Com a capacidade de selar fumaças em temperaturas que alcançam até 2000°F, o putty é ideal para aplicações em ambientes de alta temperatura, proporcionando uma vedação robusta e confiável.
Uma das grandes vantagens do Permatex 80333 é sua compatibilidade com conversores catalíticos, o que o torna seguro para uso em uma ampla gama de veículos. O produto vem em um pacote bônus com duas bolsas, oferecendo um excelente custo-benefício para quem precisa de reparos múltiplos. As aplicações sugeridas incluem silenciadores, canos de escape, juntas e conversores catalíticos, tornando-o um item essencial na caixa de ferramentas de qualquer mecânico ou entusiasta de automóveis.
Instruções de Uso:
Para utilizar o Permatex 80333 Muffler and Tailpipe Putty, siga os passos abaixo:
1. Preparação da Superfície: Limpe a área ao redor do buraco ou vazamento, removendo sujeira, ferrugem e resíduos de óleo. A superfície deve estar seca e livre de contaminantes.
2. Aplicação do Putty: Retire uma quantidade adequada do putty da bolsa e amasse até que fique homogêneo. Aplique diretamente sobre o buraco ou vazamento, pressionando firmemente para garantir uma boa adesão.
3. Modelagem: Modele o putty para cobrir completamente a área danificada, garantindo que não haja espaços vazios.
4. Cura: Deixe o produto curar por pelo menos 24 horas antes de expor a altas temperaturas. Para melhores resultados, evite o uso do veículo durante o processo de cura.
Características do Produto:
– Reparo Permanente: Fórmula projetada para criar uma vedação duradoura em sistemas de escapamento.
– Alta Resistência ao Calor: Suporta temperaturas de até 2000°F, ideal para ambientes de alta temperatura.
– Compatibilidade: Seguro para uso em conversores catalíticos, não prejudicando o sistema de emissões do veículo.
– Pacote Bônus: Inclui duas bolsas, proporcionando mais valor e versatilidade para múltiplos reparos.
– Versatilidade de Aplicação: Eficaz em silenciadores, canos de escape, juntas e conversores catalíticos.
Perguntas Frequentes (FAQ):
Pergunta: O Permatex 80333 é seguro para todos os tipos de veículos?
Resposta: Sim, o Permatex 80333 é seguro para uso em todos os tipos de veículos, incluindo aqueles com conversores catalíticos.
Pergunta: Quanto tempo leva para o putty curar completamente?
Resposta: O putty deve curar por pelo menos 24 horas antes de expor a altas temperaturas.
Pergunta: Posso usar o putty em áreas úmidas?
Resposta: Não, é importante que a superfície esteja seca e limpa antes da aplicação para garantir uma boa adesão.
Pergunta: O que fazer se o vazamento persistir após a aplicação?
Resposta: Se o vazamento persistir, verifique se a área foi devidamente limpa e se o putty foi aplicado corretamente. Caso contrário, pode ser necessário reaplicar ou consultar um profissional.
Pergunta: O produto pode ser pintado após a cura?
Resposta: Sim, o putty pode ser pintado após a cura completa, permitindo que você mantenha a estética do seu veículo.
David Roberts –
Works well saved me heaps good stuff thanks
J. Ware –
This product will work, but you need more direction than the instructions on the package or their website. I think most of the poor reviews come from people who followed the vague instructions on the package causing the product to fail.
The important property of this product is that it cures in 2 stages.
Stage 1, water dries from the putty.
Stage 2, the putty cures/hardens from high heat.
During stage 1 it is critical that the temperature is below 212. If the temperature rises above boiling, the product will swell and fall off the pipe. The package states to start the engine and let it idle. That will work to speed stage 1 but if it gets over 212, it will look like the exhaust is blowing the putty off of the pipe. If you notice it rising like cookies in the oven, shut the car off, take a tool and push the putty back in place.
Stage 1 is the complex stage. How long it takes will depend on the amount/depth of putty you use. If you can use starting the car to speed stage 1 will depend how hot the engine gets the exhaust pipe at the repair. If you are in front of the muffler, I would not use the engine. My best guess is wait 2 days. You could use a blow dryer or a trouble light to provide a safe heat. The putty will become hard during stage 1, but I don’t know of an indicator that you have finished stage 1. The real test comes when applying the curing heat of stage 2. If it doesn’t swell, you finished stage 1. If it does swell, just reshape it and wait longer to apply heat over 212. The putty will stick to itself, so if it swells and you want to add more of it to the repair, it will stick/join the existing putty.
Stage 2 is simple, if you have completely finished stage 1. All you need to do is drive and the heat from the exhaust will cure the putty to a tough waterproof seal. (If it swells and falls out, you didn’t finish stage 1)
My only concern would be if the putty is not heated enough from driving, it would not cure. I do not have any input on this as my repair was close to the engine and over 1000 degrees while driving.
My repair has lasted 30 days and it seems very solid. I hope that you can experiment with this product and find a method that works. My repair was to a very solid header pipe that only had a hole due to a heat shield that was spot welded on and rusted out at the spot welds. The product is cheap and easy to work with, about the consistency of toothpaste. Until you pass stage 2, the putty is still water soluble. If you need to soften it, just add water.
I would recommend going to
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Kevo –
Worked okay.
A#1 USA Good Time Best Fun Buyer –
I used this very successfully to seal pipe thread on a boat exhaust by applying to the threads before assembly. It has many hours of use and is working well. It’s in the first threaded junction off the exhaust manifold so the hottest area with the most vibration. I’m very happy with the ketchup consistency when used as a sealer during assembly.
I first tried to glob it over the threads as a quick fix, which would be similar to what I expect a repair on a car would be like. It was somewhat thin (ketchup consistency) and very brittle when fully cured. Also, after curing when it breaks the pieces are extremely sharp – like flakes of obsidian. There may be other epoxies with a slightly lower temperature rating that are less brittle that would be better suited to covering rust holes and stuff like that in an old car exhaust.
Mark –
This is my first time using this kind of thing, and I screwed up. It works great, but I still screwed up. I made the mistake of soaking the entire roll when I planned on using it in two places. Bad idea. This stuff gave me what seemed like 4 minutes until it was too hard to unravel. I was able to wrap only one part of my exhaust (about a quarter sized hole) in that time. When I went to wrap another area, it was already hard as a rock. If you are using it in more than one place, cut it to length before you soak so you don’t make the same mistake I did. Thankfully the other area I had to patch already had exhaust putty over it, and had a much smaller crack, so it’s not a big deal.
As for the product itself, it seems to be working great. It’s hard as steel and does not seem to get particularly hot. I don’t expect any issues down the line. No blow through or anything to make it seem like it can’t deal with the heat. I will update my review in the future though.
Prashant –
Don’t buy! Putty falls out like dust just few hours of application.useless.
JK –
Easy to apply. works well on small holes/cracks although it seems brittle once it’s cured. Use gloves when applying because it sticks really good to bare hands.
Dylan P. –
I bought this in combination with Permatex 80331 Muffler and Tailpipe Bandage to fix up my motorcycle exhaust. I had an older 87 Kawasaki, and the dual exhaust was linked in the middle with an H-pipe. Needless to say, the H-pipe broke when I took a slow speed spill. Parts for that bike were non-existent, so my only options were to get it welded, or to bandage it up. I went with the cheaper bandaging option, and it worked great. The putty is good for non-moving repairs, like at the H-pipe or in the middle of an exhaust pipe. It’s not a permanent fix, but it does work for the time being. I can’t vouch for longgevity since I sold the bike, but for the month in which I repaired the bike and rode it, it worked just fine. I’d definitely recommend the combo of the putty and bandage for fixing up exhausts.
Dman –
Very good product for rusted exhaust pipe holes and cracks. For big holes some wire has to be first bound and then the paste applied over it.
AULAGNIER –
bouche les fuites de mon manifold et apres plusieurs mois de conduite journaliair ca tient toujours.