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Descrição do Produto: Motorcraft – Módulo de Ignição (P) (DY1284)
O Motorcraft – Módulo de Ignição (P) (DY1284) é um componente essencial para o sistema de ignição de veículos, projetado para garantir um desempenho otimizado e confiável. Fabricado na China, este módulo é sinônimo de qualidade e eficiência, oferecendo uma solução robusta para problemas de ignição. Com dimensões de embalagem de 5.19 polegadas de altura, 10.16 polegadas de comprimento e 7.83 polegadas de largura, o Motorcraft DY1284 é compacto e fácil de instalar, tornando-se uma escolha ideal para mecânicos e entusiastas automotivos.
Este módulo de ignição é projetado para proporcionar uma faísca potente e consistente, essencial para a combustão eficiente do motor. A tecnologia avançada utilizada na fabricação do Motorcraft DY1284 garante que ele suporte altas temperaturas e vibrações, prolongando sua vida útil e reduzindo a necessidade de substituições frequentes. Além disso, sua compatibilidade com uma ampla gama de veículos torna-o uma opção versátil para quem busca qualidade e desempenho.
- Instruções de Uso:
Para instalar o Motorcraft – Módulo de Ignição (P) (DY1284), siga os passos abaixo:
1. Desconecte a bateria do veículo para evitar qualquer risco de choque elétrico.
2. Localize o módulo de ignição no compartimento do motor, geralmente próximo à bobina de ignição.
3. Remova os conectores elétricos do módulo antigo, tomando cuidado para não danificar os fios.
4. Desparafuse o módulo de ignição antigo e retire-o.
5. Posicione o novo Motorcraft DY1284 no lugar do módulo antigo e fixe-o com os parafusos.
6. Reconecte os conectores elétricos, assegurando que estejam firmemente conectados.
7. Reconecte a bateria e teste o veículo para garantir que o módulo esteja funcionando corretamente.
Características do Produto:
– Origem: Fabricado na China, garantindo padrões de qualidade internacionais.
– Dimensões da Embalagem: 5.19″ (altura) x 10.16″ (comprimento) x 7.83″ (largura).
– Desempenho Superior: Proporciona uma faísca forte e confiável, essencial para a eficiência do motor.
– Durabilidade: Projetado para suportar altas temperaturas e vibrações, aumentando a vida útil do produto.
– Compatibilidade: Adequado para uma ampla gama de veículos, facilitando a escolha para diferentes modelos.
Perguntas Frequentes (FAQ):
Pergunta: O Motorcraft DY1284 é compatível com meu veículo?
Resposta: O Motorcraft DY1284 é projetado para ser compatível com uma ampla gama de veículos. Consulte o manual do proprietário ou entre em contato com um especialista para verificar a compatibilidade específica.
Pergunta: Como posso saber se o módulo de ignição está com defeito?
Resposta: Sinais de um módulo de ignição com defeito incluem dificuldades na partida do motor, falhas de ignição e perda de potência. Se você notar esses sintomas, é recomendável verificar o módulo.
Pergunta: A instalação do Motorcraft DY1284 requer ferramentas especiais?
Resposta: Não, a instalação do Motorcraft DY1284 pode ser realizada com ferramentas básicas, como chaves de fenda e chaves de boca. No entanto, recomenda-se seguir as instruções de instalação cuidadosamente.
Pergunta: Qual é a garantia do Motorcraft DY1284?
Resposta: O Motorcraft DY1284 geralmente vem com uma garantia limitada, que pode variar conforme o revendedor. Verifique com o vendedor para obter detalhes específicos sobre a garantia.
Pergunta: Posso instalar o módulo de ignição eu mesmo?
Resposta: Sim, a instalação do Motorcraft DY1284 pode ser feita por você mesmo, desde que siga as instruções corretamente e tenha conhecimentos básicos de mecânica automotiva. Se não se sentir confortável, é aconselhável procurar um profissional.
Pontisteve –
I too was disappointed to see these new Motorcraft modules no longer have the word Motorcraft cast into it in large letters. I don’t know if Ford makes this module, or they farm it out. But even if they do farm it out, Ford has standards about the quality of what they buy. I figure it’s a better shot than knowing you’re buying cheap Chinese modules.
One problem is the module paste some are using. Modules get REALLY hot, and Ford decided to use the distributor as a heat sync (something they were sued over due to premature module failure, and they changed in 1994 to remote mount in Mustangs). The back side of this module is metal, and the distributor is the main ignition ground point. To make sure there is full transfer of heat, a thin amount of Thermal Transfer Compound (module grease) is used to fill in any voids between the metal plate and the distributor. DO NOT USE DIELECTRIC GREASE. I think even Ford made the mistake of saying that in some documents. USE THERMAL TRANSFER PASTE, called module grease in Auto Parts stores. If the parts guy hands you a packet of dielectric grease, educate him swiftly with a stick.
This is the same type of paste used in home computers, to mount the Processor on the Motherboard. Computer guys have high performance versions of this stuff that does a better job of transferring the heat than regular stuff. Artic Silver is one brand of high performance paste. Originally, I bought some Ceramique II paste (cermamic), because it didn’t conduct electricity and yet improved thermal transfer. But I’m second guessing myself now that I realize (and tested) that the distributor is the Ignition Ground, and that ground is sent thru the module body, out the module wiring connector, to the PCM. It’s also used to ground the coil when the coil is to be charged and fired.
The two module bolts touch this metal plate and connect the plate to the distributor anyway, but I now think that maybe Ceramique II wasn’t the best choice, and regular metallic-based Artic Silver would have been a better choice since we actually want to improve electrical transfer (and heat transfer) from the module to the distributor housing.
Before replacing the module and wondering why your car still don’t start, you must test the PIP sensor in the distributor. Here’s how: Use an LED test light hooked to battery positive. Backprobe the top wire on the ignition module connector, and touch the tip of the test light to the backprobe. Have someone crank the engine over while watching the test light. If it blinks while cranking, the PIP sensor is good. If it don’t, it’s bad… assuming the power and ground wires are both giving the module what it needs to function. If the module is good and power/grounds are ok, hook the test light to battery negative and hook up a spark tester to the coil wire. Touch the tip of the backprobe (inserted into the top wire of the module) with the test light. That should make the fuel pump run, an injector fire, and the coil spark once.
UPDATE: I tested an original 1986 Tbird V6 module that was good, and this module that was an updated part number for that car using my Picoscope, and found something interesting. The original module current limited the ignition coil once the coil was fully saturated, by increasing the ground voltage up to 8 volts (so 4 volts left between 12v power wire and 8v ground wire). This new module does not current limit the coil, and holds a steady 0 volts the entire time it turns the coil on.
While this is probably just fine, and not a sign of a problem with either module, it does show that the design is not exactly as the original module was. Whether this is an improvement or not, I do not know. Just know that if you are into scoping modules for diagnostics, the original design current limits the coil, and this new design does not.
Eric –
Oem hei unit,works great!
J. Miller –
It’s no longer motorcraft and I’m sure it’s some other manufacturers part. That said it did work. I’ve bought a couple of other brands and they were junk right out of the box.
Scott Chamberlain –
I recently installed a rebuilt engine in my Fox Body and replaced most of the engine sensors/electronics (including this TFI module) at the same time so I was starting with all fresh components. About 50 miles after getting the car back together, it started randomly stalling with no warning, even when the engine wasn’t hot – the tach would drop to zero and sometimes the engine would restart immediately when I cranked it, sometimes it required turning the key off and back on.
I checked the codes in the computer and found I had one (18) related to the TFI module. I followed the diagnostic steps to check the wiring and other components, and the whole time never suspected the TFI module was a problem since it was new. I did not replace the PIP sensor inside the distributor, so by process of elimination that had to be the problem. So I replaced the PIP sensor in my own distributor with a brand new Motorcraft unit and…. same stalling problem. At this point the TFI module was basically the only possible source of the problem, so I swapped my old one (nothing wrong with it) back on, and voila, stalling problems solved.
I, like other reviewers here, had some concerns when the module I received looked suspiciously like an aftermarket unit (no Motorcraft markings), but it came in a Motorcraft box and had Ford part numbers on it so I ran with it. The common consensus was that the OE Ford modules were way better quality than aftermarket units, but that may no longer be the case. Unfortunately my purchase is now outside of the return period, so I’m stuck with a bad module and uncertainty of where I can buy a decent one anymore.
Sean Rowe –
Good part
Delmar F. Morehart –
Product works as it is supposed to. Motorcraft quality is great.
Connie –
After two weeks worth of man hours and replacing the ignition control module 3 times and the distributor complete with a fourth module all purchased from a local auto parts store we found this OEM part on Amazon. The after market modules consistently produced an inconsistent ignition pulse. This OEM module solved the problem!
beanutputter –
Working well so far. Seems to be a real motorcraft part which is nice.
Foxbody –
Put it on worked great then as soon as it got to temp it the car would just shut off while driving