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Lelecar Door Cable Repair Kit with Cam piece for Ford F-series E-series Ranger Expedition Excursion Navigator Latch Lock Handle Billet Aluminum (4 Ends for 2 cables)

*$221.70

(777 avaliações de clientes)
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Lelecar Door Cable Repair Kit with Cam piece for Ford F-series E-series Ranger Expedition Excursion Navigator Latch Lock Handle Billet Aluminum (4 Ends for 2 cables)
Lelecar Door Cable Repair Kit with Cam piece for Ford F-series E-series Ranger Expedition Excursion Navigator Latch Lock Handle Billet Aluminum (4 Ends for 2 cables)
*$221.70
SKU: E90EF6C6 Categoria: Marca:
  • FITMENT: 1992-2013 E-Series Vans(all),1992-2013 F-Series truck(F150,F-250,F-350),1997-2003 Expedition,The Glass and Door of the rear tailgate for 2003-2005 Explorer,1998-2002 Lincoln Navigator,1992-2013 Ranger,1997-2004 Mazda B-Series Trucks.
  • REPLACES OEM PART NUMBER: F2UZ-15266A46-A.Use this kit to permanently fix both broken door cables in a single door,cargo door,liftgate,suicide door,tailgate,rear hatch,etc.
  • MATERIAL: CNC machined solid billet aluminum 6061 T6.Which is more durable than the plastic one.
  • PACKAGE INCLUDES: 3 x Standard Ends,1 x Cam style End.One Cam style locking cable repair end so that the cable bracket does not need to be bent into place.
  • EASY TO INSTALL: Use this kit to permanently repair 2 door cables,Installs in just minutes,there are many vedios about how to install online.

Informação adicional

Manufacturer

‎iFJF

Brand

‎iFJF

Item Weight

‎0.317 ounces

Package Dimensions

‎3.23 x 2.72 x 0.51 inches

Is Discontinued By Manufacturer

‎No

Manufacturer Part Number

‎LE-FPRKA

Date First Available

September 4, 2017

777 avaliações para Lelecar Door Cable Repair Kit with Cam piece for Ford F-series E-series Ranger Expedition Excursion Navigator Latch Lock Handle Billet Aluminum (4 Ends for 2 cables)

  1. TekMattrz

    Mine is a ’97 F-150 purchased in January ’96. Those YouTube vids made it look easy but it was way more time and effort than they explained. It turned out that I only needed the new retainers for the upper locking mechanism. The lower one is controlled by a rod. Like other commenters I needed to file a retainer’s channel so the wire would fit in. Squeezing the cable jacket/sleeve into the new retainer is where the work comes in. I used a file to smooth the cable jackets and remove the jagged stuff left over from the old retainer’s grip. Still, getting the new retainers to slide on/in required pliers and some serious hand strength. The cable jacket needs to go almost all the way up to the ring, minus about one quarter inch, or so. I found that after getting both jackets about half way inserted that mounting them into operating position allowed me to use the actual mechanism itself to then push the jackets further into position. The pull is tight, so pull the handles hard. This is IMPORTANT: the upper lock’s cable retainer is the special one. It needs to be inserted in a certain way onto the jacket so as to rotate 90 degrees when the assembly is re-installed on the door. Be mindful of this before you start pushing the jacket into the new retainer otherwise it will not stay in position and just pull out. If this happens to you, like it did me, don’t throw your hands up. I used a vise grip to hold the new upper retainer while the other hand held the jacket with pliers. I then twisted the jacket around enough so the retainer would stay in the clips when the assembly was then remounted. Others, I’m sure others might know a better way to do this, but if you read and understand this before going in, then you’ll have a somewhat easier time than I did. Another problem I had was that, when all was set in position, the mechanism was still too tight so the lock would not set when the door was closed. The trick was to remove that plastic holder on the lower cable’s mount, open the plastic binding clip and reset the threaded metal cable lead/end back about one eighth inch then close it back up. Now the upper lock would stay engaged until released by the handles. In any event, I’m glad that I did this. For $6 I revived full use of my extended cab which had been unavailable for a long time. While you’re at it, clean those dirty door seals. You’re welcome 🙂

  2. Eidolways

    This allowed me to repair the Bowden cable in the barn door of my 2005 Ford Excursion. Only thing, the slot was a bit narrow for the cable to fit. So I used a nail file to widen the slot a bit so the cable could safely fit without abrading the cable during use. After that, I was able to assemble the cable properly. I installed it into my Excursion without issue and it fit into the slots the old Bowden cable ends did.

  3. MGC

    The only difficulty was the window latch end. Had to remove the mechanism to get it done.
    Otherwise perfect repair. Relatively simple. Now I won’t have to worry about it again.
    Well made. Watch the multitude of videos online for instructions.
    Much better option than paying $60/cable for more plastic.

  4. ehrhart7

    I’m so glad I found this product! This is a pretty easy fix to do yourself and will save you a lot of money. The cables were a tight fit, so I sanded them down and used a little grease. There are several videos online on how to do this for the make and model of your truck.

  5. Mark Twain

    Mangled the cable sheaths trying to fit these puppies on, but with proper modification of the tip and/or cable sheath these should be worth a try for some people. I’m very strong & mechanically inclined & could not get the tips all the way onto the cable ends, & the overall length of the cable (+ tip) must be exact for the latches to open. The best I could do was all but a half inch, and it left the door in a not closed / not open position so that rain got into my cab. Ended up purchasing a 3rd-party cable / latch assembly (for a 2002 Ford f250 super duty 7.3 diesel) — $45. Fit like a glove. These ends are robust though…just do NOT try to get them all the way on without modifying.

  6. Amazon Customer

    These cable retainers worked perfectly. I had 2 that the plastic ends were broken. Dealer only sold the cables with locking mechanism and was $150 compared to $6. Auto store didn’t carry mine at all. The cable itself was fine so I tried these.

    Note* mark the end of your existing ones so you know how far to push on the new ones. Peel off old ones with a razor. I had to heat up the plastic around the cable with a lighter to soften in order to get them on ALL the way. Ones I figured that out, worked flawlessly.

  7. S. Bennett

    Worked great.

  8. Jay jay

    Very happy

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