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- An upgraded conversion assembly for your window
- Made of top-notch materials for long-lasting performance
- 100% NEW and Made with the Highest Quality Components Available
- Universal Power Window Switch
- Universal hardware for easy installation and quiet operation
Window Regulator Rear Passenger Side 3-Item Height 72710S02
*$1,261.70
A-Premium Electric Power Window Regulator with Motor Compatible with Honda Element 2003-2010 Front Left Driver Side
*$709.00
Frete Grátis em todo o BrasilProduto Original Importado dos EUA
JDMSPEED New Universal Electric Power Window Lift Regulator Conversion Kit with Switches Wiring and Hardware for 2 Door Pickup SUV Truck Van Car
*$947.40
Informação adicional
| Operation Mode | Manual |
|---|---|
| Operating Voltage | 12 Volts (DC) |
| Contact Type | Normally Open |
| Connector Type | Plug In |
| Brand | JDMSPEED |
| Terminal | Spade |
| Item dimensions L x W x H | 25.39 x 6.3 x 4.33 inches |
| Circuit Type | 12-way |
| Actuator Type | Push Button |
| Contact Material | Metal |
| Switch Type Power Window Switch | Switch Type Power Window Switch |
| Mounting Type Door Mount | Mounting Type Door Mount |
Joe –
Works on my ’99 F450. Very easy to install and seems to be working so far. Will update if I have issues with it
Dustin –
Bought an 89 Silverado for my son who is turning 16 soon and wanted it to have power windows and locks. Installed them both at the same time so took a while. I searched YouTube and found a video with a similar model but not exactly the same but was helpful enough to install it as there are no real instructions that come with the kit. I would suggest watching the video first to get an idea of what it takes to install it. I installed everything and ran the wiring and got everything working. I then went to put the door panel back on and there was not room where the armrest goes over the motor. I ended up cutting off a small ledge from the door on both sides so I could move the motor up higher to allow for clearance so the armrest would go over the motor. I would suggest trying to get the motor lined up where you think it will work and then see if the door panel will go over the motor.
Wiring is pretty straightforward if you are somewhat electrically inclined. I ran power to a higher amp fuse in the fuse box that will be on when truck is running or accessory. The power wire has an inline 30 amp fuse. The motors work well and raise and lower the windows quickly. They are not overly loud either. The only issue that I currently have is that sometimes the button for the passenger side that is on the drivers side is not always lit. It still functions but the backlit light comes and goes. Not a big deal as it still works as it should. I am not sure if it is the switch or if there is something else wrong.
I am pleased with the kit so far and as other reviews have stated time will tell on how long the motors will last. The good thing is that the kits are not overly expensive and as long as they make the same kit in the future, it should be an easy swap out of the motors. I would also suggest if your are installing on an older vehicle, maybe order some new door panel retainer clips. I had a few missing and the others were fairly brittle. I ordered some on Amazon that I am going to replace most of the clips. You can get 50 of them for under $10.
I would recommend this kit to anyone looking to get power windows in a vehicle with manual windows.
spencer –
They work incredibly well, and the price is just right.
Mario –
excelente producto
markymark –
I read the reviews before I bought this and decided to get it anyway. A couple of the reviews mentioned stripping of the plastic adapters and a burning and melting of electrical wires. My experience with these issues are as follows; Stripping of the adapters – when I tried using the tightest, most snug fitting adapters and powered the windows up and down a few times and at the end of the window travel the motor would continue to turn when the crank could no longer turn as the window was either all the way up or all the way down and eventually stripping the adapter that fits over the window crank. The solution is to use the best fitting adapter, one that you don’t have to force on that has very slight play on the window crank, the window will roll up and down smoothly and will positively stop in the maximum up or down position.
The burning wires. As I was installing the power windows I would test them occasionally throughout the process, I had the ground wire connected and I would hold the positive wire to a positive lead with my fingers to operate the window. While doing this I could feel the wire getting hot so I looked around to see what’s causing this then noticed the wires to the other window wasn’t hooked up yet and were making contact with each other, I separated the wires and insulated them and tried again and wires stopped getting hot. It could also be because the installer didn’t pay attention to the 2 brown wires in the harness, one of the brown wires has a red stripe on it, easy to miss and connect it to the wrong position in the connector plug if your not paying attention.
I really like it and my advise to anyone who’s going to install one of these is take your time, don’t rush it, it is a universal kit and installations will vary in the ease, time and by the skill of the installer.
A.C –
When I first installed one of the motors burnt up within about 2 weeks. They sent me a new one. I put it in. The drivers side worked ok for awhile. The passenger side is the one I had to replace. It would sometimes go up and sometimes it would not. I had to flip the switch to inch it up. I still do. Now it’s both windows. They won’t go up, I have to flip the switch and help them go up. Really sucks. But it’s been over a year. They work. They just don’t go up on their own very easily. I have done more research since than. I believe I know why. These motors are 12 amp motors. But all power window motors on all vehicles are 15-20 amps. The motor is just to weak. 12 amps is just not going to cut it. I will go to a junk yard and get some motors that are stronger. Buy new switches and change the circuit fuse. Or wire them with relays. But I’m pretty sure the 12 amp motor is the reason they don’t work for me and the reason they fail for others. The only thing good in this kit is the part that hooks up to where the original handle was.
Dustin –
Great works on a work van
Ross Gibson –
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Bbells –
This is very easy to install. Just remember 2 things: 1) The instructions are worthless. Watch one of the youtube videos. 2) Place the motor over one of the numerous holes in the door. Then make sure the side that sticks out goes into the hole and not in the way of the door panel going back on. I taped the wires to a stiff wire to feed them through the channel in the door, through the rubber tube and into the vehicle. For power I had to run it to the fusebox under the hood. Under the dash fuses all had continuous power – And this has constant power feed so it could kill your battery if it is always on. As long as I had the panels off I replaced the door speakers. Easy to do since the panel was off. This is much slower than oem, and with the vehicle not started the windows barely made it up. I lubricated the tracks and cleaned the windows with pledge furniture polish to help them go up. The 15 to 20% higher voltage when the vehicle was running helped a lot.
Ivan –
Very happy works great and easy to install. Thanks,