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- Module uses genuine high quality relay, normally open interface maximum load: AC 250V / 10A, DC 30V / 10A
- Using optocoupler chip isolation, strong drive capability, stable performance; trigger current 5mA
- Module can be set by jumper high or low trigger
- Fault-tolerant design, even if the control line is broken, the relay will not move
- The interface design of human nature, all interfaces are available through a direct connection terminal leads, very convenient
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HiLetgo 12V 1 Channel Relay Module with Optocoupler Isolation Support High or Low Level Trigger
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Informação adicional
| Connector Type | Terminal Leads |
|---|---|
| Contact Material | Silver |
| Contact Type | Normally Open, Normally Closed |
| Current Rating | 10 Amps |
| Mounting Type | Screw Mount |
| Brand | HiLetgo |
| Operation Mode | Automatic |
| Coil Voltage | 12 Volts |
| Contact Current Rating | 10 Amps |
| Maximum Switching Current | 10 Amps |
| Maximum Switching Voltage | 250 Volts |
| Minimum Switching Voltage | 12 Volts (DC) |
| Specification Met | Vcc |
| UPC | 702082655955 |
| Manufacturer | HiLetgo |
| Item Weight | 0.317 ounces |
| Package Dimensions | 2.44 x 1.42 x 0.75 inches |
| Item model number | 3-01-0341 |
| Is Discontinued By Manufacturer | No |
| Color | Red |
| Material Type | lead |
| Size | Small |
| Manufacturer Part Number | 3-01-0341 |
| Date First Available | July 17, 2014 |
Mars –
Used to connect 12-volt trigger from a A/V Receiver (Denon but another’s work the same) to flip the input switch on a Pyle Ps1000 power sequencer. The sequencer powers up my sub-amps and other devices I want to power-on when I power on the receiver. Just wired ground and 12-volt from the mono-mini audio output connect (trigger out) to the ground and 12-volt on the switch. Lights it up and shows it is working. Wired ground and red-wire (sorry not sure on the pin-out 4 DIN input cable that came with the Ps1000 but testing it manually was easy) into the Ps1000 switch input and it does the trick so far super reliably. Would be nice if this has a little case to keep the switch in – it is just sitting on the shelf behind my A/V equipment.
Brandon –
This relay did not work as intended. Usually a relay will energize its output terminals when a trigger signal is supplied. This one did not. Nor did the first one i ordered. I sent the first one back. Second one additionaly had defective phippips head clamp terminals. Had to solder my DC+ wire to the terminal. The fix for this relay is a jumper wire from the Dc+ to the COM output. The relay switches just fine but without the jumper wire no power to any of the output terminals. The relay is so sensitive that it functions with the 2.5v 800mA Dc trigger signal while on the high jumper setting. The low jumper setting was defective on both relays and did nothing.
This relay is garbage. I’m only using to trigger 3 car stereo Amplifiers simultaneously as the 2.5v 800mA trigger signal I have is not enough. This is a non critical low amparage application. My load is probably less than 1.5amps @12v. Highly not recommended for anything critical or safety related.
T. Port –
I needed a relay for my fireplace. I was tired of opening the bottom access panel to turn the fireplace on and off. Fortunately, I had a 110 volt outlet in there that was switched on the wall. This was used for the fireplace fan. So I hooked up this relay to an old 12V power supply I had laying around and plugged it into the switched outlet. Then I spliced the wires for the little toggle switch that lights the fireplace and connected to the relay. It works like a charm. Now I can turn the fireplace on and off easily using the wall switch and I don’t have to fiddle with the bottom access panel any more.
Francisco –
work great
Edward V. –
Used for Ham Radio Amp Interface
I needed to isolate the radio from a vintage Linear amp
Billz –
Using this on my sailboat for a dry bilge system. It worked perfectly with both salt and fresh water from my tap. I’m combining it with a digital timer switch, a sponge pickup, and small diaphragm pump. The dry bilge system will check for water below the level of the main bilge pump float switch once or twice each day, and allow the pump to run for some set period of time if it detects water, and will quit after the time allowed – or if the water is removed – whichever comes first.
Gabriel –
They work but weren’t correct for the application I was using them for
S. A. ROBBINS –
This relay module works well. It can be triggered by connecting to power or ground depending on how the jumper is set. Web page says 5 ma but that is for the trigger, the relay takes 43 ma at 12.5 volts when the relay is on and takes 5 ma when the relay is off. I was going to use this for a solar power for a project but even though 43 ma operating current is relatively low, I need every ma so wasting 43 ma on the relay will not work so I am going to look for a latching relay. If you need a relay triggered by a low current then this might work for you.
Matthew Dresden –
This little thing was inexpensive and works perfectly for what I need it’s very minor but my only complaint would be two things when it’s powered on it’s got basically a green laser that comes out of it that’s surprisingly bright and it makes a pretty loud click when it clicks on and off.
I had a rather specific scenario I needed this for I was retrofitting linear gas fireplace that I wanted to make smart with a Wi-Fi smart relay and the whole thing is surrounded and marble so there was limited options so pulling wires and such so first I had to get the Wi-Fi really in there which I did successfully but then these Wi-Fi relay is only allow you to switch on a neutral and my switch where I was switching the different colors to my fireplace switched on a positive wire so I needed this basically so I could switch with a positive wire to then switch the negative wires of another relay since it’s hidden inside of the fireplace I can’t see the light and the click is pretty minor from inside but you can still hear it but at $6 I would buy this all day everyday.