- Car Battery Disconnect Switch: When you leave the car for a long time, the battery is still working. This product controls your car’s power system, eliminating any drain on the battery when the vehicle is not in use and avoiding leakage
- High Current Kill Switch: Rated current 500A, rated voltage 12V. This battery cut off switch is specially designed for large displacement vehicles, such as engineering vehicle, truck, RV, trailer, and more
- Reduce Battery Consumption: This battery cut off switch only needs a weak standby current of 0.005A, which is much lower than the standby current of more than 60 mA of the car, so it can effectively protect the battery power and prolong the battery life
- Manual Battery Shut off Switch: There is a manual kill switch in the package that you can install in the cab or anywhere else convenient for you, and press it to disconnect the battery, eliminating the need to open the hood.
- Easy to Install: This battery shut off switch is equipped with two 0.5-meter auxiliary cables and a pure copper screw for installation for special models. The exposed terminals are equipped with insulating caps, which play the role of dustproof and waterproof


Frete Grátis em todo o BrasilProduto Original Importado dos EUA
High Current Battery Disconnect Switch 12V 500A, Universal Battery Kill Switch for Car Engineering Vehicle Truck RV Trailer, Manual Battery Cut Shut Off Switch
*$601.00
Informação adicional
Operation Mode | Off |
---|---|
Current Rating | 500 Amps |
Operating Voltage | 12 Volts |
Contact Type | Normally Open |
Connector Type | Screw |
Brand | GMURA |
Terminal | Screw |
Circuit Type | 1-way |
Actuator Type | Push Button |
Contact Material | Silver |
Switch Type Kill Switch | Switch Type Kill Switch |
Mounting Type Panel Mount | Mounting Type Panel Mount |
Amazon Customer –
It’s the best looking master switch on the market hands down. Only downside is locating a place to put it and possibly drilling a hole in the firewall. Overall good product.
D. L. Mc Crea –
Installation was tolerable, but switch button NEVER lit up, then it basically latched OPEN and LEFT ME STRANDED (fortunately I was able to bypass it from car and reconnect ground directly to battery) within 30 days of install (sat uninstalled for 3 months due to winter weather). Only have OEM 105A alternator, with an OEM starter and no electrical issues. It’s just garbage!!
hobo rosser garage –
I installed this on a full size Dodge van with a V8 engine I made my own jumpers (battery cables ) It worked as advertised. In my opinion the supplied battery cables are not large enough for some applications.
Verified customer –
They offered to send out replacement, but I didn’t have time to wait, my son was leaving with his camper so had to use manual switch from the boat shop, so they gave me full refund, I liked the switch but happened to be defective, they got back with me in timely manner, so I would still do business with them
Amazon Customer –
It is manual that is what i was looking.
Others with remot control were activated by themself turning on and off as they wished with out pushing remot control, this manual way i don’t have any issues.
Comes with complete pieces only i have to connect to battery and slide the button to on and off where i want it.
John DePietro –
Light duty, might be good for a motor cycle or lawn equipment. Relay is non latching so will drain batter if left on. Not very practical for a automotive application, no way for an RV. Cable are thin motor cycle batter style. This is not for a car or RV.
Scrommis-r –
There were no reasonable instructions on how to wire this thing. The video shows a guy wiring the switch to the negative side of the battery, which might be safer than the positive side but many cars have more than one wire on the negative terminal. There will be a frame ground as well as the negative power wire. The biggest problem with the unit is that the remote switch wires were simply twisted together and taped over where the remote cable connects to the switch. This is dangerous and really unforgivable. Also, the remote switch has 3 wires on it that were all used. The yellow wire is on a normally closed contact and I have no idea what it is used for. I gutted all the original wiring and soldered (a proper connection, rather than twisting and taping) new wires to the remote switch. I cut off the yellow wire as it only needs the green and blue to operate. I fully tested the thing and it does work well. The relay seems to be sufficiently heavy duty to carry the starting current for the motor. The coil inside draws .47 amps DC when energized so the twisty wiring thing seems really dicey at that kind of load on the switch. Surely I shouldn’t have had to modify a brand new item to get it to work. I will install it on a 2007 Tahoe tomorrow and fully test it under load.
james –
So bought one of these, easy hook up. Put the remote button in the passenger side floor wall pressed the button heard it latch/unlatch turned key on car still started.. lol did nothing to kill the power..