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### Descrição do Produto
O Dorman 977-000 Throttle Position Sensor é a solução ideal para quem busca um sensor de posição do acelerador que combine qualidade, durabilidade e compatibilidade com modelos selecionados de veículos. Este sensor é um substituto direto, projetado para corresponder ao encaixe e à função do sensor original, garantindo uma instalação sem complicações e um desempenho otimizado.
Com o tempo, os sensores de posição do acelerador podem falhar devido à fadiga ou a malfuncionamentos elétricos. O Dorman 977-000 se destaca como uma solução confiável, oferecendo um desempenho consistente e eficiente, mesmo em condições adversas. Sua construção durável é feita a partir de componentes de alta qualidade, assegurando uma longa vida útil e um funcionamento estável, essencial para a segurança e a performance do seu veículo.
A qualidade confiável do Dorman é respaldada por uma equipe de especialistas em produtos nos Estados Unidos, que trazem mais de um século de experiência no setor automotivo. Para garantir que este componente se encaixe perfeitamente no seu veículo, utilize a ferramenta de garagem para inserir a marca, modelo e nível de acabamento do seu carro.
### Instruções de Uso:
Para instalar o Dorman 977-000 Throttle Position Sensor, siga os passos abaixo:
1. Desconecte a Bateria: Antes de iniciar a instalação, desconecte a bateria do veículo para evitar qualquer curto-circuito.
2. Remova o Sensor Antigo: Localize o sensor de posição do acelerador original e desconecte os cabos elétricos. Remova os parafusos que fixam o sensor no corpo do acelerador.
3. Instale o Novo Sensor: Posicione o Dorman 977-000 no lugar do sensor antigo e fixe-o com os parafusos. Conecte os cabos elétricos, assegurando que estejam firmemente conectados.
4. Reconecte a Bateria: Após a instalação, reconecte a bateria e ligue o veículo para verificar se o sensor está funcionando corretamente.
### Características do Produto
– Substituição Direta: Compatível com modelos selecionados, garantindo fácil instalação.
– Material de Alta Qualidade: Fabricado com componentes que resistem ao desgaste e à corrosão.
– Desempenho Confiável: Proporciona leituras precisas da posição do acelerador, melhorando a resposta do motor.
– Suporte Especializado: Acompanhado por uma equipe de especialistas prontos para ajudar com dúvidas e orientações.
– Compatibilidade Garantida: Ferramenta de verificação de compatibilidade disponível para assegurar o encaixe correto.
### Perguntas Frequentes (FAQ)
Pergunta: O Dorman 977-000 é compatível com meu veículo?
Resposta: Para garantir a compatibilidade, utilize a ferramenta de garagem para inserir a marca, modelo e nível de acabamento do seu veículo.
Pergunta: Como sei se meu sensor de posição do acelerador está com problemas?
Resposta: Sintomas comuns incluem falhas na aceleração, marcha lenta irregular e luz de verificação do motor acesa. Se você notar esses sinais, pode ser hora de substituir o sensor.
Pergunta: A instalação do Dorman 977-000 requer ferramentas especiais?
Resposta: Não, a instalação pode ser realizada com ferramentas básicas, como chaves de fenda e chaves de boca.
Pergunta: Qual é a garantia do Dorman 977-000?
Resposta: O produto é respaldado por uma garantia que cobre defeitos de fabricação, proporcionando tranquilidade ao consumidor.
Pergunta: Posso instalar o sensor eu mesmo ou devo levar a um mecânico?
Resposta: Se você tem experiência em manutenção automotiva, pode instalar o sensor você mesmo. Caso contrário, é recomendável levar a um mecânico para garantir uma instalação correta.
Gene –
fits vehicle
William S. Carroll –
I have this on my 2003 2500hd. Much cheaper than buying a new throttle body (which I did about 10 years back). It’s been on there about 10 months now and has worked well. Fit well. Installation was pretty easy.
Condor –
This one actually works don’t waste your time or money on the other tps or throttle body junk on Amazon it doesn’t work this dorman unit is the only one that did work .
Lily And Mommy –
Problem solved! I had the P1516 code come up over and over on my2003 Chevrolet Silverado 2500 with 6.0L V8. It might go 6 months with no problem and then it could happen 3 times in a 5 mile trip. Mostly it happened when it was cold and I did not warm up the engine. I have had this problem for several years. I didn’t want to take this in to the dealer as I read about nightmares of people spending $600 or more to get it repaired. I wasn’t psyched to buy the OEM wiring harness for $200+. This was under $60, and easy to do.
The kit contains the wiring pigtail as well as the sensor, sensor gasket, 4 bolts and heat shrink crimp connectors. You just heat them with a cig lighter to shrink them. No need to solder as someone suggested and you don’t need to buy the gasket that Amazon recommends either.
I had been using the free bluetooth ap on my Android cell phone called “Torque” to receive the codes and clear them. (You also need the sending unit about $30.) I didn’t dare travel anywhere without my phone for fear of the code coming up. Now I am good.
Keith H –
After having experienced the dreaded “decreased engine power” business, I connected my reader and found it said the error was with the Throttle Actuator Control (TAC); the little brain box mounted to the firewall by driver’s side hood spring. So I purchased that from Rock Auto since Amazon wouldn’t ship that part to CA for unknown reasons (even though it’s been in use on my vehicle for the past 13 years straight, in CA). That install was simple, but then saw additional videos where folks said they did the same thing and the problem returned, and that the actual problem was the TPS. So I grabbed this TPS retrofit kit and installed in place (didn’t remove the throttle body like many videos show people doing; to clean I guess). Removed air intake; two 5/16″ nut driver hose clamps. Took photos of the existing 20 gauge wire harness wire configurations, as the new harness has all white wires (16 gauge). Used the shrinky-dink solder sleeves (Airnix SST-S21; from Amazon) to reconnect, using doubled-up aluminium foil as a backing for the heat gun (Wagner HT-400; also from Amazon). Don’t care for mechanical crimping on applications like this, even though it comes with butt connectors. Soldered first connection, let cool before moving the wire out of the way, then repeated 7 more times for remaining wires, matching their position to old plug harness.
Then came drilling out the rivets on existing TPS, to remove from TBI. Used countersink bit (as I had one, and allowed drill a little more access than using 3/8″ drill bit) and needle nose to hold backside while drilling x4. Covered TBI with foil to make sure no drill cuttings got in there. Pulled off old TPS, noting the alignment of everything inside, so I could make sure new TPS was in same position. Rubber gasket on old was stuck to throttle body, so pulled that off. Replaced and bolted on with provided 7 mm hardware. New connector plug was a bit tight, so put some wire lube on male connector side, and it went right on. Reinstalled air intake, turned on ignition to send power, but not start, figuring the electronics would need a refresh for a few seconds. Turned key off, then started right up no problem.
Everything is running fine now, and it seems to shift more smoothly. Prior to new TPS, trans would hold on to 1st and 2nd gear up to around 2500 rpm, with a hard shift. Now it let’s go at right about 2000 rpm, which makes for smoother acceleration/shifting. Don’t know if TPS is directly related to shift points, but it’s definitely smoother now.
Took me about an hour to do, and was definitely cheaper than having a shop do it, even with earlier TAC replacement. As I believe the shop will tell you that an entire new TBI is needed (of course).
Chuck –
My Silverado had most of the classic symptoms of a bad TPS: late shift from 1st to 2nd, harsh shifts, dead spot on the accelerator and jerky acceleration. I purchased this Dorman TPS and replaced the factory one on my truck. WOW!, what a night and day difference in performance! I am definitely very happy! I’m even happier that I didn’t have to buy a new throttle body(which without this part, is the only way to get a new TPS, as the factory one is riveted to the throttle body, and costs hundreds and hundreds of dollars from the dealership) Installation was a piece of cake, I disconnected the ground from the battery for safety first as you are dealing with an electronic part. Then just drill out the head of the old rivets, remove the rivets, place the new TPS in position, making sure the electrical contacts are aligned and press it to the throttle body. Fasten with the bolts provided. I didn’t use the replacement wire harness, as the factory one on my truck was still in good condition. It plugged in easily to the new TPS.
Thank you Dorman for making it easier to repair vehicles for people who can’t afford what the dealership is charging.
mr.castrejon –
I liked the extra long cabling on the connector, it made it easier to check if there were any crimps or breaks in the existing lines. it also made it easier to reroute the lines out of the way of any heat or pinch sources, fitting easily into shielded loom protection sheath. I didn’t have any calibration issues as I also changed out the foot pedal TPS at the same time.
Josh –
If you have checked the grounds and replaced this the only other thing I can recommend that solved my dreaded Reduced Engine Power message was replacing the Accelerator Pedal Position sensor. This Throttle Position sensor has helped in the past but this time it was the accelerator pedal sensor that resolved the problem. Both are easy to replace.
Keith H –
I’ve had this on for about a week now and haven’t had reduced engine power since installation. I started by just putting on the new wiring harness and that worked for about 2 days and then REP started again. I did the next step and removed the throttle body and drilled out the rivets, put the new sensor on, and put the 4 included bolts in. The total time for this was maybe 30 minutes and zero issues. I have driven my truck several cold mornings and haven’t had a single issue, so I believe this is the fix I needed. The wires are much thicker on the new wiring harness compared to the factory wires. If I was going to do it again, I would start with the sensor on the throttle body first so you don’t have a bunch of spliced wires. I had read that the wiring harness is the problem a lot of times. I decided to start there, unfortunately it was not the wiring in my case, so now I have a bunch of splices that I have to worry will come loose down the road.
Rock It Psi Un Tist –
I recently bought a 2003 suburban 143xx miles good deal on it , it started powering down in power randomly or when would go thru nasty roads with potholes patched in a very nasty way very rough road i would pass at 35+mph and the suburban would shake then go into reduced power mode was told it could be my grounds but there all good so i trusted this part that would fix my suburban and it did it has not done it in over a week im glad i bought this instead of the whole throttle body assembly , and its very easy to install btw i only installed the sensor not the pigtaill harness that came with it , the sensor it self did the job very good part give it a try!