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- Trustworthy replacement – engineered and tested to match the fit, function and performance of the original window regulator on specified vehicles
- Quality assured – extensively tested by cycling thousands of times in an actual vehicle door to ensure a long, trouble-free service life
- Easy installation – reverse-engineered to match the original equipment shape and dimensions to provide a direct, seamless fit
- Reliable design – engineered in North America and backed by long history of automotive aftermarket experience
- Ensure fit – to make sure this part fits your exact vehicle, input your make, model and trim level into the Amazon Garage
- Fit type: Vehicle Specific
TYC 660626 Power Window Motor and Regulator Assembly Front Left-Side Compatible with 2011-2020 Mitsubishi Outlander
*
YHTAUTO Front Driver Side Power Window Regulator with 2-Pin Motor Assembly and Interior Door Panel for Ford Expedition & Lincoln Navigator 2007-2017 - Only Fits the Models w/o...
*$1,297.00
Frete Grátis em todo o BrasilProduto Original Importado dos EUA
Dorman 741-637 Front Driver Side Power Window Regulator and Motor Assembly Compatible with Select Buick / Oldsmobile Models
*$914.20
Informação adicional
| Manufacturer | Dorman Products |
|---|---|
| Brand | Dorman |
| Model | WINDOW REGULATOR WAI |
| Item Weight | 4.5 pounds |
| Product Dimensions | 22.1 x 12.3 x 4 inches |
| Country of Origin | USA |
| Item model number | 741-637 |
| Exterior | Machined |
| Manufacturer Part Number | 741-637 |
| OEM Part Number | 11A1, 11R21, 1552-6322L, 1553-1430L, 52112, 52114, 660168, 741637, 82-154BR, 82108, 82154BR, B462910, SK741637, WL41637, WLA2012, WPR0609LM, WR0135, WR51076, 10315144, 10334397, 10434882, 19245391 |
| ABPA Partslink Number | GM1350124 |
| Hollander Number | 125-2094L, 125-2028L, 125-2028 |
| Special Features | Easy to Install |
| Date First Available | July 7, 2004 |
Mike Shields –
It fit
T.Soma –
Got this part today. It took 45 minutes to swap it out. Everything fit perfectly. I especially appreciated the longer power dongle. Overall, very satisfied. It sure beats the 400 I was quoted at the shop. Not to be picky, but this was made in Taiwan, not China.
What I did:
Pop up the screw cover in the middle of the door and took out the two screws there.
Take out the screw behind the latch.
Pop up the control panel, disconnected electrical connections (Pry up the end closest to the front of the car first).
Pry around all the edges. I used a very large flat head screwdriver. This is a little difficult. The door is held on by plastic fasteners that pop out. Try prying on them right where they come out of the interior molding. BE CAREFUL NOT TO DROP THE DOOR. The tweet speaker cable must be disconnected or you will break the solder joints. Disconnect the tweeter speaker and the mirror power connectors. Put the door somewhere.
Slowly peel off the water barrier. It goes back later, it will stick. You only need to peel off the left side, don’t worry about taking off the speaker.
Compare the assembly in door with the new part. Slide the window up so that the sliding bracket is in the same position as the new part. Tape the window up with duck tape. Stick it on the outside and over the top of the frame.
Disconnect the two screws that hold the slide bracket to the window. Pay attention to how the slide goes attaches. Disconnect the two screws at the top of the slide rail. Disconnect the two on the bottom. Loosen the three screws that hold the motor / regulator assembly to the door. Slide it up and in and reach into the hole on the right to disconnect the power connector.
Pull everything out. Put the new assembly in. The cables will connect at the top of the slide rail. The cable sheaths will cross once, like in the product picture. Screw in the motor / regulator first. Screw in the slide rail assembly, the part with two screws at top and two at bottom. Adjust the window to line up with the holes in the slide bracket. Put the two screws in that hold the window to the bracket. Connect the motor / regulator power cable.
At this point I plugged the window control panel back in, peeled off the tape, and tested the window. If there’s something wrong, better find it now than after you’ve put everything back together.
Connect everything else back up.
Hope this helps.
Gary Guevin –
Perfect fit new hardware ready to install great I will update after running it for a few day
Amazon Customer –
Ease of installation
User –
This is not the first Dorman window regulator/motor that I’ve purchased and it’s likely not going to be the last.
As indicated by Amazon, this product fit a 2001 Buick Regal Front, Driver side window/door without issue. I was pleasantly surprised to see that the product came with fresh bolts pre-threaded into the motor and regulator which made for an even faster/smoother install AND it came with some extra door panel plastic clips (in case they break when removing door panel).
If I had to make one “neutral” comment about it, and I wouldn’t go so far as to say it’s a negative, it’s that the cable routing on the regulator seems to match the OE design. This is good in that it’s at least equal to the OE design, however, the OE design on this part isn’t ideal and metal cables are rubbing against plastic, under tension. Some manufacturers have modified the design to include a pulley where the cables change direction at the top of regulator – this one did not. Regardless of this, the unit functioned perfectly and I can’t complain that it technically matches the OE style. Will it last as long as a regulator with a pulley for the cables? It might have a shorter lifespan but I’m definitely content with the product for what it is and I would buy it again.
Rich Farrar –
The unit arrived a day early and all the parts looked good, though not the golden finish shown in the picture. Also came with a packet of door panel clips, which would have been extremely useful had I broken a clip and not the plastic guide on the back of the panel to help line door up to the panel more easily. Anyway, the instructions called for removing the door handle, which I didn’t do on my 2001 Buick Century, the mechanism is out of the way and it only takes a little bit of thought beforehand to figure out how to remove and replace the door panel without damaging anything, and the mechanism’s moving parts all run along the solid steel of the door frame, which kinda made the idea of the door handle being an obstacle moot. Removal of the old parts and installation of the new was fairly easy and straightforward, a small note though, when putting the new unit in, slide the bottom end into the door behind the lower speaker first so that you can have enough play to set the motor in place, then bring up the regulator to place it. The rigidity of the wire guides coming out of the motor made trying to put the regulator in second pretty much impossible. One small problem was that the right hand hole for mounting the window to the support bracket was off center from the window a little bit, it was down and to the right of the threaded hole on the window tab. This was easily fixed with a rattail file and lowering the window to check progress a couple times. Fixing the hole took less than 5 minutes, so it wasn’t off very far off, just enough to throw off aligning the bolt so that it locked up after about 1.5 turns. I didn’t even need to remove the unit to fix the hole, just make sure the window is lifted back up out of the way. Being a machinist, this little defect is unsurprising given how much I’ve watched parts change as production runs.
All in all, it works great, installation was quick and easy, minus the little bit of filing. I will update if it fails within the next 2 or 3 years. Other than that, the whole job took less than an hour and all I needed was a 10mm socket for the door bolts and all window, motor, and regulator bolts, and a philips #2 screwdriver for the screw behind the door handle.