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- Trustworthy replacement – engineered and tested to match the fit, function and performance of the original window regulator on specified vehicles
- Quality assured – extensively tested by cycling thousands of times in an actual vehicle door to ensure a long, trouble-free service life
- Easy installation – reverse-engineered to match the original equipment shape and dimensions to provide a direct, seamless fit
- Reliable design – engineered in North America and backed by long history of automotive aftermarket experience
- Ensure fit – to make sure this part fits your exact vehicle, input your make, model and trim level into the Amazon Garage
A-Premium Power Electric Window Regulator Without Motor Compatible with Toyota Sequoia 2001-2007 Tundra 2004-2006 Front Passenger Side
*$661.00
BOXI 748-507 Rear Passenger Side Power Window Regulator with Motor Fit for Ford Explorer for Mountaineer for Lincoln Aviator/Black / 6L2Z-7827000-BA
*$842.90
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Dorman 741-556 Front Driver Side Power Window Regulator and Motor Assembly Compatible with Select Jeep Models
*$609.60
Informação adicional
| Manufacturer | Dorman Products |
|---|---|
| Brand | Dorman |
| Model | Window Regulator And Motor Assembly |
| Item Weight | 4.25 pounds |
| Product Dimensions | 23.38 x 11.38 x 2.88 inches |
| Item model number | 741-556 |
| Exterior | Machined |
| Manufacturer Part Number | 741-556 |
| OEM Part Number | 11A103, 11R93, 2552-6326L, 56720, 660176, 82-434AR, 82434AR, 86820, J462908, SK741556, WL41556, WLA1028, WR0002, 55363287AA, 55363287AB, 55363287AC, 55363287AD, 55363287AE |
| ABPA Partslink Number | CH1350122 |
| Hollander Number | 125-1996 |
| Special Features | Easy to Install |
| Date First Available | March 22, 2007 |
Michael Long –
so far, it is working well, easy installing and fit my 2002 grand cherokee, hope the cable will be last longer! cause i bought a TYC window regulator from here six months ago,but the cable broke now.
I hope Dorman should be a good brand and reliable.
this is first time for me to bought a defect product from amazon. I think that is fortuitous .
Cable is important key component of part, should use high quality materials,expect TYC may improve his products! Also give a good warranty for the lost money!!!
oldfishingman –
Easy fit, works great, price was very good. It even came with the door panel clips, very thoughtful 8)
Jerald Day –
When I looked around for competitive prices for a fix to a stuck window, I was quoted $300+ for a fix.
If you’re here, like me, you’re interested in doing this yourself. I was able to replace and install the new window regulator in about 2-hours for under $100. For me, this included fabricating a new weather shield barrier (plastic sheet behind the door panel). I recommend viewing a few YouTube videos on the subject before going after it yourself. I will say the process is incredibly easy and once you go through it, you’ll be happy that you did.
Before you start, you should consider purchasing some door panel clips, in case you break one or two during the removal of the door panel. These can be purchased on Amazon or at your nearest automotive store.
In addition, the weather shield barrier behind my door panel was too old and beginning to disintegrate. I purchased some Weatherall Visqueen Plastic Sheeting to fabricate a new plastic weather shield lining and some silicone adhesive sealant for touch ups.
JOHN W –
Exact replacement to OEM in my Jeep driver side regulator. Works. My only concern is the original has a metal bracket that holds window. This one comes with a plastic one. Not sure how it will hold up over time.
Jasper –
I’ve replaced a few of these window regulators in various vehicles using the Dorman branded product such as this one I installed in my daughters 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee.
Install is very easy if you’re reasonably mechanically inclined. This product works great….but my one complaint is that every single regulator I’ve replaced to date in various vehicles (4 regulators total) is being replaced because the plastic piece that connects to the cable that runs the window up and down has broken. This thing has a metal glide…but the part that attaches to the window is all plastic…and plastic breaks, especially when it’s cold and ice or snow collect on the windows in the winter. It seems such a shame to have a regulator that is in perfect condition, but has this little plastic piece broken….so you have to replace the entire $60.00 dollar unit because they use a plastic piece rather than a metal one that might cost two bucks more. The manufacturer saves two bucks, and it costs you 60 bucks. Makes sense, not!
Kevin –
I’m not an auto mechanic by any means, but when the Jeep dealer told me it would cost at least $500 to replace the passenger side window motor on my aging 2001 Jeep GCL, I thought I’d see if there were any alternatives. A local shop bid $300, but I found a video online that detailed the replacement procedure, watched it, then decided to go the DIY route and ordered the part from Amazon.
Replacement took about an hour for a door pulling newby. Note you will also need a Torex T25 and a Torex T27 bit as those screws help secure the panel to the door frame.
The only tricky part was prying the panel off the trim clips as it takes a fair bit of force and I broke a few clips in the process. Fortunately, one of the other reviews mentioned that possibility, and I’d ordered a set of door trim clips at the same time ($15).
It took a lot less time to put everything back together, and I can’t tell you how pleased I was when I flipped the switch and watched the window roll up and down.
Or how pleased I am to have saved $400.
Mark Andren –
Perfect fit
brickets –
This is the second time in the last 6 years I’ve had to replace this motor. The first time, I shopped around and got a cheaper one (this review is for the Dorman 741-556). I saved maybe $10-$12. When I got this one out to do the replacement, I saw that it’s much heavier than the one I got 6 years ago. The metal brace is much more substantial. The bolt receivers are welded to the brace instead of being “stamped” out. The part that attaches to the bottom of the window is metal rather than plastic. The plastic guides at the top and bottom are a lot thicker, attached a lot better. This is the point where my old one gave out, the plastic guide at the top of the brace was broken into small pieces and laying down inside the door when I got the panel off. Worth the extra money!
MJA –
Bought this for one of my son’s vehicles. It was an exact fit for a 2001 Jeep Cherokee Laredo manufactured 6/2000. Side-by-side it was an exact replica of the original. Very satisfied. Even bought the “used—very good condition” one which I’m sure was a return. Came with everything just like a brand new one for 1/3 of the price and the only differentiation was a previously opened plastic bag. The only problem I had was one of the four bolts that holds the motor broke off from apparent over-tightening; which it shouldn’t have because it wasn’t that tight. But the other three bolts held it just fine. Works like a charm. Exactly the speed up and down of the original. Will definitely purchase this brand again if needed on one of the other doors.
JOHN W –
I have installed Dorman regulators in 3 out of 4 doors in my 2004 Jeep GC. All are working great. It’s a nice gesture on Dorman’s part to try to supply all that’s needed, but the included door panel clips are complete garbage. I keep OEM door clips on hand for the top of the door only. They are more expensive, but very worth it. They also give you a few removals before breaking depending how old they are. It is crazy annoying to have the door panel pop off when closing the door, and all aftermarket clips I have used (probably four different brands) seem to do this if the door is closed hard enough. OEM will not. The Dorman clips are particularly bad (I wouldn’t use for any part of the panel) which is surprising considering how well engineered the rest of the regulator is. I’ve found that the remaining door clips can be made up of any of the well reviewed clips you can buy on Amazon. The plastic always seems to be cheaper than OEM, so some will break when removing the panel, but who cares when you can get 50 for $10?