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- Direct replacement – this engine camshaft synchronizer is designed to match the fit and function of the original synchronizer on specified applications
- Restores functionality – reliable replacement for an original part that has failed due to vibration or contamination
- Durable construction – this part is made from quality materials to ensure reliable performance and long service life
- Trustworthy quality – backed by team of product experts in the United States and more than a century of automotive experience
- Ensure fit – to make sure this part fits your exact vehicle, input your make, model and trim level into the garage tool
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4x Oxygen O2 Sensor for 2012 2014 2015 2016 GMC Acadia Chevrolet Caprice 3.6L Upstream + Downstream
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Frete Grátis em todo o BrasilProduto Original Importado dos EUA
Dorman 689-117 Engine Camshaft Synchronizer Compatible with Select Ford / Mazda / Mercury Models
*$693.30
Informação adicional
| Brand | Dorman |
|---|---|
| Item dimensions L x W x H | 3.1 x 3 x 8.5 inches |
| Maximum Supply Voltage | 5 Volts |
| Measurement Accuracy | ±1% |
| Mounting Type | Flange Mount |
| Output Type | Digital |
| Specific Uses For Product | automotive |
| Upper Temperature Rating | 125 Degrees Celsius |
| UPC | 019495245292 |
| Global Trade Identification Number | 00019495245292 |
| Manufacturer | Dorman Products |
| Style | Position sensor |
| Model | CAM SYNCH |
| Item Weight | 1 pounds |
| Product Dimensions | 3.1 x 3 x 8.5 inches |
| Country of Origin | USA |
| Item model number | 689-117 |
| Is Discontinued By Manufacturer | No |
| Exterior | Ready To Paint If Needed |
| Manufacturer Part Number | 689-117 |
| OEM Part Number | 30S2600, 84S2600, CAMS2600, CS5A, CSU104, CZA104, DA2089, FD32, FD32S, F8DZ12A362AA |
| Date First Available | October 10, 2007 |
Curtis –
Shipped fast – good packaging
Direct fit in 2008 Ford Ranger 3.0 l (why did Ford stop making these?)
20 min – old out, new in …… back on the road.
NZ –
My 2005 Ford Taurus started this chirping noise recently, and I bought this product after doing some research online. Originally I was a bit worried because I saw some comments online saying that this product has wrong dimensions, but it turned out to be a good fit for my car.
The package contains 3 items: a cam synchronizer, a cam position sensor, and an alignment tool. According to my experience the alignment tool is very helpful, here’s how I did the job:
1. disconnect battery’s negative terminal; remove air filter case cover and the tube attached to it, and 3 small things attached to the tube
2. disconnect the coolant tube(it’s blocking the way to access the plastic wire channel), plug it to prevent leaking
3. the plastic wire channel is right above the cam synchronizer and it’s a big headache, here’s how I tackled it:
3.1. pop the upper half of the plastic wire channel(that is, separate it from the bottom half), move it upwards to give room;
3.2. use a string to tie the wire bundle upwards, out of the way;(I also need to remove some tape to separate the wires from the bottom half of the wire channel)
3.3. for the bottom half of the wire channel, I drilled a hole in there, then used a string to tie it upwards as much as possible, to give some room
4. unscrew the bolts on the cam position sensor, remove the sensor
5. see if the alignment tool fits the synchronizer; if not, that means the engine is not at TDC, you need to jack up the front passenger side, remove the tire, pop the plastic thingy behind the wheel, and use a socket to turn the crank pulley bolt clockwise, until the alignment tool matches the synchronizer perfectly; take a picture, mark the position of the arrow on the alignment tool
6. unscrew the hold-down bolt for the synchronizer, pull the old synchronizer out; if it’s too tight, shake it back and forth, then use a flat-head screwdriver to pry it up from the bottom
7. put the alignment tool on the new synchronizer, and put the new one into the hole, feel it in different positions back and forth, and settle on the spot that’s closest to the original position but a bit to the left(that is, a bit off on the counter-clockwise side, because it will turn clockwise when you push it down further), push it down or use a hammer to slightly hit it(on the collar) down until the collar touches the base; check if the arrow on the alignment tool is around the same position as the old one
8. put the hold-down bolt back on, put on the new sensor, put everything back. Take a drive to see if the chirping is gone.
This product saved me $500+ on this engine-related problem, I’m very happy with this purchase.
David Mahala –
I bought this part to replace the OEM factory one on my wife’s 1999 Ford Ranger 3.0L as it was starting to squeak. My mechanic said the part worked perfectly. The price was great and included a warranty. If you have an older Ford that has a squeak that keep time with the rotation of the engine, this is part you need to replace. I initially thought it was the idler pulley and the tension pulley and changed them first. But this was the part I needed all along.
paul –
I just installed the 689-117 on my 2000 3.0l ranger because the old unit was chirping. Product was fine, only difference I saw was that the pins on the sensor (black cap) were thinner than the pins on the OEM part, my OEM sensor was in good shape so I just reused it (I think the Dorman part probably would have worked). Couple notes: (1) some people say that where you have the engine (e.g. TDC, or 10deg ATDC, etc) is important, I don’t see any reason for this as long as you know the old sensor is where it should be (i.e. hasn’t skipped a tooth which is very unlikely) then turn the engine over until the tang lines up with the window (i.e. the black cap tool fits on at this position), then don’t rotate the engine anymore, take out the old sensor and put the new sensor in with the black tool, where the black tool points isn’t important as long as the tool was used. (2) I had trouble getting the assy down the last 1/8 of an inch so that it bottomed with the engine block, I took it out lube everything really well and still had the same issue, finally I got a better grip and wiggled it side to side while pushing down and it finally went the last 1/8. I’m a fairly strong guy so don’t be surprised if it takes a bit of pushing to get it down all the way, I’m guessing it was the o-ring engaging a lip or cutout on the block that was giving me the difficulty. Good luck!
Glen MacKinnon –
HAVE NOT INSTALLED YET – LOOKS TO BE CORRECT PART AS DISCRIBED. MAKES ME HAPPY! Good Del. Time as always. Thanks Glen M.
William Lillie –
Worked well. No more squeak. Easy to install.
Amazon780 –
Would buy again
BDCAmazon –
My 2001 Taurus started having a squeaking sound coming from the drivers/transmission side of the engine compartment. After doing some research online I read that the cam shaft synchronizer starts to go around 100,000k miles.
Reading tutorials online say you need to rotate the engine to cylinder 1 TDC to change this. I have an easier way to find TDC that worked perfect!
– Start by removing the throttle cable cover and disconnect both throttle cables and lay them back.
– Remove the small coolant hose attached to the t-stat.
– There will be a plastic cover surrounding a wiring harness laying on top of the cam synchronizer. Use a flat blade screwdriver to pry the two plastic half’s apart. Removing the tape allows you to move the plastic guard/wires independently, which helps get them out of the way. I tied a knot around the wires/plastic guard and pulled the string back and tied it off on the windshield wiper.
– Disconnect the wire harness from the cam synchronize.
– Remove the cap from the cam synchronizer
– You will see a small tab sticking up. You want to rotate the motor so that the tab lines up with the opening on the top of the synchronizer. I did this by using a pry bar on the 4 water pump pulley bolts. You’ll only be able to go one way.
– Once the tab is lined up with the notch, place the calibration tool on the synchronizer in the vehicle. Use a flat edge/ruler to draw a line on the intake manifold that lines up the arrow on the alignment tool. This step is vitally important so you don’t throw off your engine timing.
– Remove the cap and remove the bolt/washer that is holding the synchronizer in.
– Drive a small flat blade screwdriver between the cam synchronizer and engine block and twist. Make sure you have removed the alignment cap because you will break it if when you pull out the synchronizer. The tab inside will rotate as it’s pulling away from the camshaft! Remove the synchronizer from the vehicle.
– This is the hairy part. Place the cap back on the new synchronizer and set it in the approximate location, lining up the line you drew with the arrow on the cap while also being aware of sliding the tip over the oil pump driving rod.
– Remove the cap, being careful not to twist the body of the synchronizer. Turn the tab slightly ahead of it’s location. It will twist back into the proper position, lined up with the opening, as you finish setting the synchronizer into position. You may need to use a rubber mallet to make sure the unit is flush with the intake manifold.
– A properly inserted synchronizer unit will allow you to place the alignment tool cap back on the synchronizer in the vehicle and have the line you drew, line up with the cap’s arrow.
– Promptly secure the synchronizer with the bolt/washer.
– Reconnect all wires and hoses.
– Start your vehicle and enjoy over $500 in savings in parts and labor.
Wayne H. –
Excellent value at this price. Includes a new camshaft position sensor (not included with other brands) and an alignment tool (which wasn’t available elsewhere). The 3.0L V6 in my 2006 Ford Ranger XL 2WD had developed a squealing noise that sounded like belt/pulley noise. Intermittent at first, then steady. Finally isolated the noise to this unit, at the back of the engine, with an automotive stethoscope. I found the timing marks on the crank pulley (took a LOT of cleaning and a magnifier to see them) and set the engine to TDC at cylinder 1 (front left cylinder when facing the firewall) on the compression cycle. Must be on the compression cycle. Take photos and mark position of the synchronizer “pointer” before removing the 10 mm bolt and extracting the synchronizer from the engine. When re-installing (for the Ranger), the pointer in the synchronizer should be at 38 degrees CCW from center when looking from the front of the engine bay toward the firewall. Coat O rings and the gear at the bottom of the new part with engine oil before installing, to avoid damage. My truck is running smooth and quiet with this new part installed. So far, so good!