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- 【OEM DESIGN】This power door actuator is manufactured to the OE specification to provide factory-fresh appearance and direct-fit, that enables proper door locking function. OE connector helps ensure a solid, positive connection
- 【PREMIUM QUALITY】Long life-span matters, that is why our driver door latch is crafted from reinforced plastic to provide maximum durability and excellent performance. Engineered with an electro-mechanical exterior latch release mechanism to ensure more efficient and sleek operation
- 【FITMENTS】2010-2019 Toyota 4Runner, 2007-2017 Camry, 2009-2013 Corolla, 2008-2013 Highlander, 2006-2015 RAV4, 2012-2014 Sienna, 07-16 Tundra | 2010-2015 Lexus IS250 IS350 (Convertible), 2011-2016 CT200H, 10-16 GX460, 07-12 LS460 | 12-15 Scion iQ, 08-15 Scion xB | & More, SEE BELOW for all vehicles
- 【REPLACE OE NUMBER】69040-06180, 69040-0C050, 69040-33221, 69040-AA050, 69040-42250, 931401. The latch actuator has undergone a rigorous test to ensure excellent performance, which features a high-quality electric motor
- 【12-MONTH WARRANTY】If for any reason at all, you are not fully satisfied with the front door latch motor, you can rely on our service of free REPLACEMENT or REFUND
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Frete Grátis em todo o BrasilProduto Original Importado dos EUA
Door Lock Actuator Motor Front Left Driver Side | for Toyota 4Runner Camry Tundra Sequoia, Lexus ES350 GS350 LS460 RX450h, Scion tC xB xD | Replaces# 69040-0C050, 69040-06180,…
*$552.90
Informação adicional
| Brand | Gledewen |
|---|---|
| Voltage | 12 Volts |
| Material | Plastic |
| Item Weight | 460 Grams |
| Manufacturer | Gledewen |
Sina –
This was to replace the front driver’s-side door on my 2013 Toyota Corolla. This part installed easily enough to replace the factory part. After re-assembling the door panel, we noticed the locking system would bind and the interior lock would not fully actuate. After an additional two hours of troublshooting, we finally discovered one part of the assembly does not match the factory part. The keyway for the exterior cylinder has a “+” shape as you can see in the photos. The first photo is the factory Toyota part, and you can see that the horizontal slot is WIDER than the vertical slot. On this replacement part, the vertical slot is WIDER than the horizontal one. This is exactly OPPOSITE of what is it supposed to be, thus this replacement part does not work if the door you install this on has a key. I don’t know if I got a defective assembly of that is just how these are manufactured. I requested a replacement to find out.
–UPDATE–
I got a replacement part, and it was exactly like the original. This leads me to believe this is not a defect in the manufacturing, however this does mean the following:
This part is NOT compatible with 2013 Toyota Corolla, left door WITH KEYED ENTRY
This may also be the case for other make/models with keyed entry. BUYER BEWARE
William B. –
The item arrived fast packed really good. Pretty easy install.
Jay –
3rd party actuator that’s going to save you $150-$200. All the mechanical functions feel a little third party, but it works well, and is easy to replace. If you’re replacing from YouTube videos, make sure the video you use also covers reconnecting the keylock (it’s an extra step, and one more screw to loosen/tighten).
(Updated rating – issues I did have were self induced.)
John Garner –
I recently purchased a Toyota Camry 2015. The right front door wouldn’t lock when pushing the lock button on key-fob. So, I searched and ordered this one. Took it to a mechanic and fixed it. Now this door can be locked and unlocked same as other doors. The product is good so far.
Chris Lester –
Exact fit and finish of OEM part. OEM part did not last, so a none OEM part can’t be any worse, and is hundreds of dollars less.
LightForAll –
First of all do a search for undoing a Toyota door panel. You’ll see how it’s really not rocket science to switch out an actuator. But then you’ll see how there’s not a gull durn thing about the 2nd gen Highlander 2009-2012’s panel removal.
I’ll try to wake you through but you own responsibility for damage. First get those plastic panel vehicle tools; they make things easier for tinkering.
Remove the plastic cover where the side mirror rests. So it from the window side.
Pop loose the plastic cover behind the inside door handle to expose the 10mm/Phillips screw & remove.
Pop open the brown faux wood trim from the top which is held by plastic tabs. They reveal two Phillips screws, the other two of the three that anchor the door panel. The lower screw is deep inside a tunnel.
Return to the juncture of the panel on the mirror side. Wedge your tool between the door and panel and begin popping loose the retaining tabs and then you can grab beneath the panel popping along the bottom, up the right side past the actuator, then along the top. I kinda lifted some while pulling out and the panel comes free.
The actuator is anchored by 3 Torx screws. Tinkerers, get a set here because they’re used on most cars. Undo and place in a safe spot.
There is plastic to carefully pull away from the door. Unplug the unit by the one set of power plugs that is secured by a tab you push in and then pull.
Examine your new actuator. There are two cables that fit into that plus one metal rod that fits BEHIND the actuator. I didn’t know about that rod so reach around to feel it behind the old one you’re about to remove. Jiggle the actuator to slide that metal rod free and you’ll have to twist the unit clockwise to free it from the metal ridge inside the door. Lift it free and it still is attached by the two cables.
Examine from YouTube videos of the older Highlanders and how the old actuator holds the two cables. Open the black plastic tab to expose the ball shaped end. Pop each cable free of the unit’s body. Rotate the ball end 1/4 turn to unlock. The second has thin metal shank that is Z shaped. Carefully free that as well. Attach the Z shaped end and then the ball end of those cables and anchor them to the body of the new unit.
This is the part that I had forgotten when installing: reach in to find that heavy steel rod that attaches to the outer door handle. That end goes into the white plastic hole of the arm of the new actuator. Once you’ve slid it through, lift the actuator unit and swing it back around that ridge and set it into place and hand screw the 3 Torx screws.
MAKE SURE to plug the unit with the power cable (I forgot that too lol). Test that the unit operates by remote and power buttons. Wait to manually lock and unlock the button for now.
Also check to make sure that the latch is properly ready. It’s the black swing arm that latches your door. Mine was closed and when I tried shutting the door it didn’t latch. Pull the outside handle which I think opened the latch.
Tighten all Torx screws. Check once more that there’s power before reattaching the door panel. Go in reverse to assemble and then test.
Mine on a 2011 Limited Highlander works flawlessly now. All operations are retained, from manual locking to using the power buttons, the remote and also the automatic unlock when you walk up and put your hand inside the outer handle. You can’t beat the price and value. I’ve saved hundreds by doing the homework and having the patience to DIY!
Jay –
I’m not a mechanic. The install took longer than the YouTube video suggested. The door doesn’t close as gently as the original part but works fine.
Andy K. –
One by one, each of the 4 automatic door locks on our 2013 Toyota RAV4 had stopped working. My husband frequently drives this vehicle on gravel roads and, over a period of years, the door lock actuators had become clogged up with dirt and dust. Fixing each door lock at the dealership would have been over $500 per door. As each door lock stopped working, my husband would watch a few YouTube how-to videos, and then remove the door panel, remove the door lock actuator, carefully open up the door lock actuator box, clean the dirt & corrosion, and then re-assemble. No cost, but a very arduous process taking 4-6 hours per door. When the front passenger door lock actuator stopped working a second time a year or so after being cleaned, we discovered that you could buy these low-cost replacement parts. It was easy to find the right part to order, and he installed it in less than an hour. Well worth the cost for the part, and it works great! UPDATE August 2023: This part failed after 2 years and we are having to re-order a new part and replace it. Even if this part only lasts 2 years, it’s still worth it to replace it yourself, given how expensive it is to have it done at the dealership.
TnC_Blades –
The power lock on my 2008 Toyota Highlander stopped working with either the power button on the inside, or the key fob. This had gone out before, but the car was under warranty, so Toyota fixed it for $0, but estimated an $800 ($350 part + labor) price tag. It wasn’t worth $800 for me to fix it, so I saw this and thought I’d give it a shot for $35. For the price difference, I was skeptical if this was the right part or would work. A few Youtube videos later and the door works great! Easy to get to on the Highlander with Youtube help and easy to get out. Two things to watch out for: (1) make sure to re-insert the outside door handle rod into a slot on the side of the actuator when reassembling. I didn’t even know that was in there because you can’t really see it when taking it out and there wasn’t a video specific to the 2008 Highlander. (2) Make sure the wires stay clipped in position. One had popped out when re-assembling, so I used electrical tape to keep it in place. Thanks for saving me $800!
LightForAll –
The locking unit was an exact fit for my 2013 Toyota 4Runner limited.