Frete Grátis em todos os produtos
- Denso “first time fit” planar air fuel sensor, original equipment direct plug in, no wire cutting
- Sample Image Provided May Differ From Actual Product
- Features zirconia solid electrolyte
- Highly accurate
0.5-4.5V 60 Psi Universal Pressure Transducer Sender/Sensor Solenoid for Oil Fuel Diesel Gas Air Water,Gauge Pressure 1/8"NPT Thread Stainless Steel
*$433.00
A-Premium Front Left/Right ABS Wheel Speed Sensor Compatible with BMW - I01 Series i3 2013-2023 - Front Driver or Passenger Side, Replace# 34526865793, 34526794374
*$325.00
Frete Grátis em todo o BrasilProduto Original Importado dos EUA
Denso 234-9001 Upstream Air Fuel Ratio Oxygen Sensor with 10.6” 4-Wire Harness, for Auto Trans Equipped Vehicles
*
Informação adicional
| Brand | Denso |
|---|---|
| Material | Zirconia |
| Item Weight | 3.2 ounces |
| Maximum Supply Voltage | 12 Volts |
| Measurement Accuracy | High |
| Mounting Type | Flange Mount |
| Output Type | electrical signal |
| Specific Uses For Product | automotive, exhaust gas analysis |
| Upper Temperature Rating | 1E+3 Degrees Celsius |
| UPC | 042511110366 |
| Global Trade Identification Number | 00042511110366, 00425111103660 |
| Manufacturer | Denso Sales Californ |
| Style | Modern |
| Item model number | 234-9001 |
| Is Discontinued By Manufacturer | No |
| Manufacturer Part Number | 234-9001 |
| OEM Part Number | 234-9001 |
| Date First Available | January 2, 2007 |
Texas Bigfoot –
1) Amazon has the best price I could find anywhere for this product
2) installed it on a 2002 Toyota Tacoma 3.4L V-6 4WD Double Cab Automatic; upstream sensor (right after the engine, before the two catalytic converters). Location is readily visible if you crawl under the truck on the passenger side, right after where the exhaust pipes from either side of the engine come together on the underside of the truck.
3) Used PB Blaster to help loosen EXTREMELY rusty nuts; this product works wonderfully (just use latex gloves).
4) 12mm nuts, was able to reach them with a deep socket – the socket is the only tool needed for this repair (you don’t need an oxygen sensor wrench)
5) Used Permatex Anti-seize lubricant on the threads when placing the nuts back on to tighten the air/fuel sensor to the exhaust pipe – 14 ft lbs of torque for the nuts (the threads are the two bolts permanently mounted to the flange on either side of the air/fuel sensor). Permatex is a very good product which has a temperature range of -60°F to 1600°F (-51°Cto 871°C) and is salt, corrosion and moisture resistant.
6) disconnected the battery before doing the repair (remember to disconnect the NEGATIVE side of the battery).
7) the electrical connection has four wires; the two black wires can be checked with an ohm meter (open/OL/high resistance is bad, should be 11-16 ohms). I used a 10mm socket to remove the bolt for the metal support for the female side of the connector; the connector has a rocker-arm on top which locks it in place – mine was pretty hard to press down so removing the bolt allowed me to get a better grip on it, made the repair much easier.
8) The gasket should be oriented with the part having the most white facing toward the exhaust pipe
9) DON’T TOUCH THE SENSOR TO ANYTHING at all when you install it – prevent grease/oil/lubricants from getting on it
10) the error code I had was p1135 – P1135 A/F Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank #1 Sensor #1); my truck only has two sensors, one upstream (before the catalytic converters) and one downstream (after the two catalytic converters but before the muffler).
11) I am having to install the downstream (rear) sensor as it failed 3 days after I installed the upstream sensor. Glad I ordered them both at the same time! The downstream sensor required me to buy a new intermediate pipe (WALKER Part # 53398) as the old pipe had rusted out where the oxygen sensor gets attached to the flange on the pipe. A perfect place to find all the parts to your exhaust is rockauto(dot)com, look under exhaust>pipe and click on the blue square with white lettering that says “info”
Hope this helps someone out there!
Joe’s hobby workshop –
Works well and is fairly straight forward to install on a 2004 Tundra. Tried cheaper made in China version that threw a code immediately so I had to go back to the Denso OEM version that it replaced which lasted 7 years before the heater quit. Hoping this one lasts longer. Except for the longevity of the one that was replaced I would have given it 5 stars. Mind you, the original factory sensor lasted 8 years so that might be the expectation.
Bryan Stableford –
I did a lot of research, and this turned out to be the exact part I needed. My check engine light came on, and the code told me that it was the forward oxygen/fuel sensor. The repair shops wanted $300+ to replace this sensor. I bought the part and installed it in about 45 minutes. Make sure you coat the threads with a little anti-seize compound. The check engine light went out, and my fuel economy went up about 2 miles per gallon. I used this for my 2001 Toyota Tundra with the 3.4 liter V6. It was an exact fit and looked to be the same part that it replaced. I saved over $220 dollars. My vehicle only has 49,000 miles on it though my truck is over 10 years old . I hope that I don’t have to replace it again for many more miles.
Jerry G –
2004 Tundra V6 pulled a P0031 code. I ordered this sensor and it is identical to the Denso sensor in my truck.
Works great, perfect fit. Thirty minute job and saved money.
Jon –
Few months of driving around with the annoying engine light on. Showing code P0031, I thought it was gas cap, since it didnt click once and when i filled up, i realized it wasnt on tight. That could’ve caused it to damage or fool the air fuel sensor. Once i replaced the cap, every time I filled up, I could hear the air pressure release when I open it. After 9 years, the old gas cap couldn’t hold pressure anymore. I STRONGLY suggest you buy the gas cap from your car’s manufacture and not an aftermarket one or universal one. I found my toyota one on amazon for 20 when the dealer wanted 32. Either way, I still got P0031.
So the dealer wanted $240 and local mechanics wanted between 100-200 just for the sensor. Labor was between 20-60 at local mechanics and up to 200 at dealer. wouldve cost me 150-500! Found this here on Amazon for Around $100, and jumped at the opportunity. Don’t use Amazon’s part checker to see if it fits your vehicle. Go on Denso after market’s website and use that. 234-9001 did fit mine, although Amazon’s part checker only said it fit 2 out of the 6 times I checked.
That being said, I don’t believe this is 100% Denso, as it even says on amazon’s website. It looks like it’s made by a company with strict Denso standards, and have to pass certain requirements. Denso then puts their label, “Denso First time fit” on it.
These parts are pretty sensitive, so don’t drop them or anything. Surprised the box didn’t come with any padding. I returned the first order because the package seemed damaged. I didn’t open the bag because I didn’t want to be responsible in case it didn’t work. Amazon promptly sent me a return label and issued me a refund. I bought it again, and it came perfectly.
This part is for the front. This particular tacoma has two. below the car, toward the passenger side before the cat is called upstream and that is this particular sensor i replaced. It is a “fuel and air ratio sensor”. the 2nd is toward the middle end of the car, by the cat. Apparently this is the downstream one, and it’s an 02 Sensor. I hear the front one is the one that needs most replacing.
It took me 6-8 minutes to replace it. It was my first time replacing it and I don’t work on my car very much. Its that easy. Make sure the car isn’t warm or hot. You could burn yourself down there. Snap off the gray electrical connector, either w a push at the groove and pull it apart, or a flat screwdriver. Then for the two 12 mm nuts, maybe use pb blaster or wd40 to lubricate it a bit(i used wd40) but I’d wipe it down, especially around the sides. I wouldn’t want that stuff dripping into the hole when you loosen the nuts and remove the old sensor. loosen the nut a little bit and you should be able to use our hands to take it off. remove everything. put new sensor in, with the supplied gasket, put the nuts back on, but i guess not too tight. just hand tight. snap the electrical connector on and be sure the wire is away from anything moving or hot. there should be a little area that the connectors snap onto.
I removed the negative cable for the battery for 10 minutes to allow everything to clear. then put it back on, changed back all my radio codes and preset stations and whatnot. Started the car and the light was gone. Now if you don’t know too much about cars, when you remove a battery or just the cable, it resets the computer. So your car may be a little shaky or hesitant for the first 10-40 miles, as it learns how to adapt to your driving habits again. after that, smooth sailing and no annoying light. Thanks Amazon and other reviewers! go Tacos!
Amazon Customer –
Proper fit and the right unit as it was identified to be. So much cheaper than at dealership! Toyota Dealer is a robber!
Amazon Customer –
Cheaper than the dealer and any parts counter and it’s oem
E. S. –
It did what is was supposed too and fixed the problem
Kilometers –
This part worked for my Tacoma and appears to be a genuine Denso part.
Check engine light was deleted after install and it has not come back on after 3 months of driving.
This part is for the sensor located upstream of the catalytic converter. 02 sensor is downstream.
amp3d –
Denso sensor, works awesome! There’s a reason why this is a Toyota OEM part.
Fit my 2002 Toyota Tacoma like a glove. In case you’re not sure, this is the sensor AFTER the cat, not the O2 sensor before it.