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- Manufactured to the highest O.E. quality, guaranteed to fit right
- Does NOT include the connectors
- Aluminum oxide trap, this extra layer helps to protect from silicone and lead poisoning
- Stainless steel housing and porous Teflon filter all contribute to make a long life
- Improved engine performance and greater fuel efficiency
- Prevents premature sensor failure
Holley EFI 534-10 Coolant Temperature Sensor
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ACDelco GM Original Equipment 213-77 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
*$454.90
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Denso 234-4209 Universal Oxygen Sensor with 11.5” 4-Wire Harness (connectors not included)
*$491.30
Informação adicional
| Brand | DENSO |
|---|---|
| Item dimensions L x W x H | 5.91 x 2.13 x 1.93 inches |
| Material | Stainless Steel, Teflon |
| Maximum Supply Voltage | 12 Volts |
| Mounting Type | Threaded |
| Output Type | electrical signal |
| Specific Uses For Product | Universal Automotive Oxygen Sensor |
| UPC | 042511142091 |
| Global Trade Identification Number | 00042511142091 |
| Manufacturer | Denso |
| Style | Modern |
| Model | Oxygen Sensor |
| Item Weight | 4.6 ounces |
| Product Dimensions | 5.91 x 2.13 x 1.93 inches |
| Item model number | 234-4209 |
| Is Discontinued By Manufacturer | No |
| Exterior | Machined |
| Manufacturer Part Number | 234-4209 |
| OEM Part Number | 234-4209 |
| Voltage | 12 Volts (DC) |
| Date First Available | January 2, 2007 |
Danny Kusek –
Product doesn’t work. I would recommend a different sensor. This one worked for 3 days.
LEWIS A. –
Worked great for my 2006 toyota matrix xr fwd downstream only it means is the one after the catalytic converter,the one before the catalytic is not the same so don’t get confused ,you do have to crimp the wires because it doesn’t come with the connector to the car but it’s pretty easy I made a video on the youtbe if you need help, it comes with the crimp connectors for the wire so you don’t have to buy any ,make sure to connect the matching color wires, after I installed the sensor and driving for about 5 miles 3 codes came up but I just erased them with the cheap scanner and they never came back so that means it worked great after 50 miles of installation
CThab –
Easy to solder with your existing connector, or just get the sensor with the connector included. About 3-4 years ago, and in a span of 2 years both sensors failed on my car so I purchased both sensors that came with and without the connector. Today February 3 ’23 both are running strong.
andres a. –
Estoy satisfecho, lo utilicé en la reparación de una camioneta Sienna
NZ Aeronaut –
After a long search this part turned out to be a perfect fit for my Japanese domestic model 2001 Toyota Estima (called the Previa in the USA). Five days after my engine warranty expired my engine check light turned on (go figure). As I’d just bought the car used, and since my salary is low and I’m trying to pay my Japanese bills in yen during the worst dollar/yen exchange rate in history, I decided to search online for a DIY cure. Since the car has an OSDII connector my first thought was to purchase a good middle-quality OSD reader from a USA vendor (they don’t sell them here) so I could read the engine code. Such readers are standardized and supposed to work in ALL CARS MADE SINCE 1996, or so said the advertising. When it arrived I tested it, and although the connector is IDENTICAL, the reader kept giving me a “cannot connect” error. After much online searching I found that Japanese domestic cars do not use an OSDII connector, they use a PHYSICALLY IDENTICAL but ELECTRICALLY INCOMPATIBLE DLC3 CONNECTOR (the capitol letters are there to show my annoyance with the car manufacturers for creating “standards” that are anything but). Fortunately the vendor I bought the reader from gave me a refund for all but the return shipping. A kind car mechanic had the correct reader, tested the car for me for free, and gave me the code, P0155. An online search found that it referred to the Bank 2 Sensor 1 O2 sensor heating element. Now came the search for a replacement part, which was an almost as difficult task because there are many available and their prices vary widely depending on whether it comes with an original connector or not. It’s very easy to get the wrong one. However, the Denso 234-4209 sensor in this review was a perfect fit for my 2.4L Toyota engine, and the locations for both sensors are just under the hood behind the radiator so getting to them was easy. I bought two at $36 each plus a split socket and a thread-chaser. The Lisle 12100 split-socket is a must, the Lisle 20200 thread-chaser is not, unless you’re sloppy with the insertion. Both tools are well made and inexpensive. Two tips: 1) remove the old sensor while the engine is hot (be careful), as it is much easier that way. 2) don’t use the crappy crimp-on thingies that come with the sensor, solder the wires instead, but use lots of flux as rosin-core solder alone won’t bond to the sensor’s very stiff wires. I found that bending the bare wires back into the shape of a fishhook and squeezing them tight with pliers stabilizes the joint long enough to apply the solder. Use the small-diameter heatshrinkable tubing that came in the kit on each joint PLUS a six inch piece of 1/2″ heatshrinkable tubing to cover all four bonded and covered wires together. The latter is not absolutely necessary but it makes a tighter cover and it’s better than using black tape. Also use the anti-seize compound that comes with the kit – there’s enough for at least two sensors in each tube. Total cost for two sensors, tools, and shipping was less than $100, much less than the $300 fee most dealers would have charged to change just one sensor.
Luis M. –
No sirve para nada no tiene marca es genérico sólo fue una pérdida de tiempo y de dinero. No viene grabado de la marca ni modelo
Alex Stewart –
Codes reset in a day. Easy to splice in to old connector. Very happy with the replacement (been a few weeks of no codes).
Customer Review –
I replaced both the O2 sensors on my Pontiac Grand Prix (upstream and downstream). Alas, I didn’t realize that the California-emissions-rated upstream sensor had a slightly different plug. I happened to buy the regular downstream sensor, so no issues there, but I had to, er, creatively modify the upstream plug connection. Everything fit, the sensor was sending a signal, and life was good–until I got a CEL for HO2S resistance that wouldn’t go away. I checked the resistance of the new sensor and it was within spec, but it was around half that of the stock.
Finding it odd that the Denso downstream sensor worked fine but the upstream didn’t, I decided to try the universal fit model. My assumption was that perhaps the CA emissions models have different heater resistances, but that ‘universal’ versions might work. I followed the directions to the letter (no soldering! O2 sensor wires are finicky and it screws them up somehow) and the CEL went away. This universal-fit O2 sensor had a resistance much closer to the stock one that it replaced, which apparently satisfied the computer.
YMMV: I can hardly claim to have experience with many Denso sensors, and it might just be that the heater resistance values are a crapshoot across the board. I can’t fathom why the heater in a CA emissions sensor would have a different resistance from that in any other sensor, but so far that’s the only explanation for my experience.
Tracy L Winkler –
I’ve had uneven results buying non Denso O2 sensors for our 2002 Rav4 (and other Toyotas we’ve owned.) I’ve concluded it’s worth the extra money to purchase OEM Denso sensors, and this one hasn’t disappointed – working well. That said, I was surprised to discover that the four wire colors of this replacement unit were totally different than the original factory wiring. Which is the signal wire? Which the ground? are the two black wires the same as the two white ones?? and so on…. The instructions are silent about this. So…
Fortunately, after some serious searching the Toyota forums, I found a post listing the colors. So I’ll include it here, in case you have the same experience:
Denso ——————- OEM wiring
Blue ——————- Black Signal +
White ——————- Gray Signal –
Black —————— White heater
Black —————— White heater
You are supplied with crimp connectors, waterproofing shrink wrap sleeves, and anti-sieze compound. Cut the old wires off at the sensor, strip 1/4″ off each wire end, slip the respective wires into connectors and crimp (need a crimping tool), slide the heat sensitive shrink wrap sleeves over each connection and heat until they shrink and seal the connection.
I gave four stars instead of five because of the wiring color differences.
Calvino Balboni –
Works just fine, not sure why these mechanics are having a hard time looking at pinouts and connecting four wires together. Oh not a mechanic? Then get a mechanic to do it.