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- Efficient Fuel Consumption
- Package Dimensions: 8.636 L x 6.858 H x 8.382 W (centimeters)
- Package Weight: 0.200 pounds
- Country of Origin : United States
25060-2Y900 Fuel Lever Sensor For Nissan Maxima GLE GXE 3.0L 2000-2001
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Oxygen O2 Sensor Upstream Downstream Replacement for 2007 2008 2009 Honda CRV 2.4L L4 Replaces# 234-9062 234-4359 Set of 2
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Frete Grátis em todo o BrasilProduto Original Importado dos EUA
Denso 1976040 Mass AIR Flow Sensor
*$1,331.60
Informação adicional
| Brand | DENSO |
|---|---|
| Item dimensions L x W x H | 3.25 x 3.25 x 2.75 inches |
| Mounting Type | Flange Mount |
| Output Type | Digital |
| Specific Uses For Product | Air Flow Sensor |
| UPC | 042511175754 |
| Global Trade Identification Number | 00042511175754 |
| Manufacturer | Denso |
| Style | Modern |
| Model | Mass Air Flow Sensor |
| Item Weight | 2.88 ounces |
| Product Dimensions | 3.25 x 3.25 x 2.75 inches |
| Item model number | 1976040 |
| Exterior | Machined |
| Manufacturer Part Number | 1976040 |
| Date First Available | April 22, 2012 |
Ian S –
Good price and works well. Wish it fixed the problem but, oh well, always nice to have an extra MAF!
Joey –
Worked great on my 2005 Forester STI
Jag driver –
Working great in my jaguar 2001 xj8 smooth and stable rpm
STi Driver –
I got this one from the vendor, West Side Parts, shipped from them and not Amazon. They came in at $25-$35 lower than Amazon.com pricing…maybe I should have known? This part arrived in, parts do say “Made in Vietnam”, FYI.
The part I got was wrapped in a bag, saying “Inspect before opening–once open, it cannot be returned”. Fair enough, but it wasn’t until I opened the bag that this “new part” I discovered had as much buildup on the outside as my old one with 120K miles. I was able to “scratch off” the residue with my fingernail. So unsure if the vendor was the problem here…so BUYER BEWARE.
In the end, since I cannot return it, I’ll run with it, as it does work. Next time, for the money, I’ll spend the little bit extra and buy direct from Amazon.com or another more reputable seller. Penny wise, pound foolish, I suppose–learn from my mistake!
P.s. I had bought a $30 ebay version of a MAF, and though that worked too, figured I would buy an aftermarket Denso MAF on Amazon to be safe. Live and learn!
AmazonCustomer –
This item is now MrTris™ Approved!
If you’re not sure if you need this, start here: […] (Or is that what brought you here?) If your ’04-’15 turbo Subaru MAF is more than 100k miles old, this is money well-spent. There are charts and graps to tell you that new is better, but, what will mean the most is what you feel : Smoother, improved idle, crispier throttle response; and, if you’re like me, elimination of “phantom” knock issues under “normal” driving conditions on the Stage 2 OTS tune.
What’s in the box: New MAF, with new o-ring. Per instructions on the above link, be careful with the screws. If you’re on the east coast and things are rusted and/or seized from salty roads, you would do well to replace them — they’re reasonably cheap. Otherwise, you can get by without needing to. Simply unplug the MAF wiring connector on your airbox, remove the screws (mine were Phillips-head), and pull the old MAF out. Gently push new MAF in, until you feel a positive non-metallic connection; if needed, carefully rotate MAF until the housing’s fastener holes line up with your airbox, and re-install screws. Doesn’t need to be super tight, just enough to snug it up.
Use your AccessPort or Tactrix to reset your ECU, or, if you’re still on the stock tune, disconnect your Negative battery terminal and step on the brake pedal for 20 seconds. Reconnect, and restart. Expect the idle to ‘hunt’ while the ECU relearns the proper parameters, this shouldn’t take more than a couple minutes to settle down.
Go for a drive and enjoy!
UPDATE 02/17/2016: Got tuned at PIA last Halloween, with stellar results, thanks to solid airflow readings from a new MAF. Here we are 90+ days later, everything is still all good. Throttle response and AFRs are ON POINT! Do you and your car some good – Buy a new MAF today!
scott –
I own a 2007 WRX limited. I had had an intermittent issue for almost a year that even 2 local local shops had not resolved. Intermittent rough running with retarding timing at low throttle and RPM’s. After many part replacements including at one point the knock sensor and removing/fixing various small issues causing it to false signal knocking the problem was still present. The last visit to the Subaru shop I was told it might be the MAF sensor though there was no codes or anything for their computer to read. They cleaned the original one with 143K on it. I drove home with the issue still there. I went online and triple confirmed this was the correct MAF for my car. I then started reading other reviews and found several WRX and STI owners that had the same issue. One guy even said if the MAF has over 100K on it replace it. So I ordered this on a Wednesday and got it last Friday. Swapped it out and viola ! It was the answer. I have driven it all week to work and back and watched my Cobb data and have had no issues at all. I’ll wait to see if my mileage comes back up as that was also happening as a result of the rough running. If you have a similar issue it’s well worth the money to buy this and see if it resolves your issues !
Iris Tan –
This product is not a fake, for some who would be skeptical. It is a Denso maf sensor OEM equivalent, which in my case it’s for Subaru and Denso makes maf sensor for them. I bought this to fix the issues on my car p0171, which my car would jerk, hesitate, nearly stalling, rough idle, no power. This would be a fix, but it can be many things, in my case yes. Just make sure it is the correct parts number when ordering, and just ask to place fragile label so it won’t get damage when delivered.
Brandon Doucette –
Works on an 04 FXT 5MT, helped my idle problems and allows me to tune better. I went through chasing ghosts and learning this car the hard way lol. Anyway a new O2 sensor, plugs, this part and a coil we are running right. No more falling on her face around 3000-4000 rpms. If your having this issue or issues after you replace the part go through a idle relearn cycle and drive the car for 50-80 miles. Subaru’s have to learn and they are always learning even at 143,000 miles. My problem was too many resets not enough drive time to let her learn. Even if yours is idling rough let her learn and drive. If it’s really bad start with fuel/air and spark. If your boosted check vacuum lines and get an accessport or a tactrix cable and a laptop. I can’t see throwing things at it when you can’t see the numbers. Good luck and happy driving!!
Pierre-marc gauthier –
Merci
Rodolphe G. –
Bought it for my mazda cx-7 and it work perfectly without complication excellent brand like every mecanic around say Denso they know their work