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- All components are 100% NEW to provide improved performance
- Key components are greased to ensure long term reliability in harsh conditions
- NEW units are manufactured under the guidelines of ISO Quality Standards to ensure consistent quality
- ACDelco Professional NEW Alternators are computer tested for voltage stability, terminal function, and electronic circuit board integrity
- Engineering enhancements to internal components provide the latest, most efficient unit for your vehicle
A-Premium Alternator Compatible with Toyota Camry 1997 1998 1999 2000 2001 L4 2.2L, Solara 1999 2000 2001 L4 2.2L, 80A 12V CW 5-Groove Pulley, Replace# 1012119510 1012119580...
*$1,477.00
DISCOUNT STARTER & ALTERNATOR 12 Volt 180 Amp Alternator Compatible With BMW 328 Series 3.0L 2007-2014 12-31-7-550-968, 12-31-7-551-256, 12-31-7-555-926, 0-121-715-012,...
*$2,113.00
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ACDelco Gold 335-1148 Alternator
*$1,919.60
Informação adicional
| Manufacturer | ACDelco |
|---|---|
| Brand | ACDelco |
| Model | Alternator |
| Item Weight | 14.2 pounds |
| Product Dimensions | 7.8 x 7.3 x 6.8 inches |
| Country of Origin | Mexico |
| Item model number | 335-1148 |
| Exterior | Painted |
| Manufacturer Part Number | 335-1148 |
| OEM Part Number | 88877358 |
| Date First Available | March 30, 2012 |
David L. Turpin –
I ordered this alternator for my 2006 Ford Escape. It was a little tricky getting the old one out and this one in but, I am back on the road. Yay
HD714 –
Packaging is horrible.
The first one, two of the three rear studs were bent. The second one, the pulley was bent.
This is not the kind of job you want to have to redo.
If they use packaging this cheap, what is the quality of the product?
Delco really dropped the ball.
J –
Fits Ford Escape 07
Taking the old one out took 10 hours, cheap aftermarket broke after 2 years, the bolts in it where too long to pull it out of the car, had to bolt cut them off. Shop charged $500 for the first time, I did it my self the second only cost me $200 with a few new parts and the Alternator ($157) This new one by ACDELCO just dropped right in. I used 8,10,13,15 and 16mm deep sockets for the job along with a E8 torx. You are going to need a small ratchet, I recommend the husky brand small one. There isn’t much room to take out the top bolt holding the alternator in, it’s a different bolt size, a e8 torx while the others are 15mm bolts. I went through a box of gloves for the job.
Car Enthusiast –
I purchased the ACDelco Gold over less expensive options because I wanted to ensure there would be no problems since the install was going to be long and complicated. What I expected was a quality part given the name (General Motors) and it being their premium line (formerly named Professional Line).
The replacement of this part on a V6 Ford Escape is the most involved and longest procedure of any alternator replacement I have seen. It’s hard to believe the engineers designed the access so poorly that it’s necessary to remove brakes, suspension components and a drive axle to make enough space to get the alternator out and back in. To that add the cooling shrouds that have to be removed while the alternator is loose but rotated in its location before it can be removed from the vehicle. I won’t go into more detail on that as there are many videos on-line describing this but the point is that its a huge pain and takes many hours of work. Mechanics confirm the same thing (PITA) even with their superior tools. workshop lifts etc. – compared to those of us that work on our cars ourselves, working on our backs largely with hand tools.
The Good: The alternator was delivered in good time (well done on this delivery Amazon!)
The Bad: This brand new alternator has bearing whine!!! No way to tell it had a bad bearing until it was installed and being rotated at speed.
Under normal circumstances a prompt return and ordering another alternator would be in order, even though inconvenient and having the vehicle down for a few more days. In this case, the labor required makes this option more than unattractive. It took me a day to remove everything and 1/2 day to install the new alternator. Others may be able to do it faster. Even if you have a mechanic do the job for you, it will be double the labor cost.
While the old alternator was no longer charging, after many years of service it had no bearing noise.
I doubt Amazon will do anything except offer a replacement or a return but I am hesitant to redo the job. I may wait until I can’t take the noise any more or until the bearing completely fails?
I might have been unlucky and received a bad unit. On any other vehicle this may not be a big deal but for Ford Escape/ Mercury Mariner owners its another story.
Gene –
loose packaging but product arrived ok. Fits and works as far as I expected. I will let you know in six months. Hopefully, this will stay working.
HD714 –
New part not rebuilt. Quick service and exact fit.
B.N –
If your battery also died you must have it trickle(slow) charged and tested and replaced if bad.
If replacing on a Ford Escape I can guarantee you will hate this job, it’s unimaginably difficult due to being placed in an idiotic location.
First Tip, it can be taken out the top, however, you will need to place a block of wood under the engine pan and slightly lift the engine when you are ready to remove it. Watch a youtube video.
SPECIAL NOTE: Before replacing your existing alternator and or before driving the car after installing the new one you Must clean the ground wiring connections. This may solve your existing alternator problem or prevent the new alternator from defection. Especially if your alternator is overcharging.
ITEMS TO PURCHASE: a new battery terminal(for negative post) that has a 4 gauge wire attached(or separate wiring&terminal) ,
Sand paper(220 grit) to sand down ground locations.
Ring terminal(apprx 8 gauge)
1. Disconnect terminals and Remove old battery and battery tray. Also, remove the airbox
2. On the negative terminal there are 2 wires that are attached. One is long and connects on the transmission, and the other shorter cable connects beneath the battery tray. You need to carefully cut the terminal apart and remove both wires. You will be replacing the shorter cable with the new 4 gauge wire/ clamp that you must buy.
3. The two wires that were connected to the negative terminal in step 2, connect beneath the battery try. If you notice they are connected to a bolt that has two nuts and is also securing a smaller set of ground wires(they connect to fuse box, near batter). Remove the entire stud/bolt/nut thingy and down the frame and the underside of the nuts, and well as the ring terminals.
NOW, only connect the smaller set of wires to the factory location. You will notice that next to the bolt that secured all of the ground cables there is an additional threaded hole. You NEED to sand down this area and attach both of the thicker ground wires that are connected to the new ground terminal/cable.(the one that came attached to the terminal, and the longer cable that you added a ring connection to, that connected at the transmission.) You may need an additional bolt for this, it’s the same thread pitch as the original bolts that secured all of the ground wires.
4. Crimp the Ring terminal onto the end of the longer cable that grounds at the transmission.Now is a good time to remove the bolt holding the other end of this longer ground cable from the transmisison and sand down the connection points on the cable and the transmission and the non-threaded portion on the underside of the bolt that secures the cable to transmission.
I know this is confusing and I apologize that I don’t have pictures and can’t explain it better.
But I promise you this is the cause of overcharging,gauges and interior lights flickering and repeated alternator failure. The factory grounds are bad and the alternator doesn’t get the correct signal as a result and continues to charge the battery at volts of 15-17+ and fry’s the battery.
I will update if the alternator craps out.
Lastly, I did the above steps after replacing the alternator and still having the problem. I searched for hours and found no solutions, so I traced all the wires, and even though they had consistent voltage, when I used a test light the results led me to conclude there were bad ground connections.
Good luck, and may god have mercy, this is a miserable job and I am a Master Mechanic.
Greg Phillips –
2 of the 3 bolts were bent
Ryan –
This replaced a factory Motorcraft unit on a 2007 Ford Escape 3.0 V6 and it works as it should. Heads-up for anyone else looking to replace an alternator on an 07 Escape 3.0, it’s the most complicated alternator replacement I’ve seen. It took me about 5 hours total. It’s a DIY job with the correct tools, but take your time and expect it to take a while.