- [Vehicle Fitment]: “Downstream Front and Rear”: Compatible with Hyundai Azera 2007-2011 V6 3.3L, Azera 2006-2011 V6 3.8L, Entourage 2007-2008 V6 3.8L, Sonata 2006-2010 V6 3.3L; Compatible with Kia Amanti 2007-2009 V6 3.8L, Sedona 2007-2010 V6 3.8L
- [Vehicle Fitment]: “Upstream or Downstream”: Compatible with Kia Sedona 2006 V6 3.8L
- [Reference Number]: 250-24707, 250-24690, 25024707, 25024690, 392103C850, 392103C200, 392103C100
- [Specification]: ①Wire Quantity: 4; ② Overall Length: 330+750 mm; ③ Mounting Type: Threaded; ④ Sensor Type: Heated; ⑤ Connector Gender: Female & Male; ⑥ Package Quantity: 2x Oxygen Sensor; ⑦ Packaging Type: Box
- [Buy with Confidence]: A-Premium offers a one-year unlimited-mileage guarantee on our meticulously crafted O2 Oxygen Sensor. We offer a wide variety of automotive accessory categories, ensuring that you can hit the road with peace of mind.


Frete Grátis em todo o BrasilProduto Original Importado dos EUA
A-Premium O2 Oxygen Sensor Compatible with Hyundai Sonata 06-10, Entourage 07-08, Azera 06-11 & Kia Amanti 07-09, Sedona 06-10, V6 3.3L 3.8L, 2-PC Set, Replace# 392103C850,…
*$757.00
Informação adicional
Brand | A-Premium |
---|---|
Material | Stainless Steel |
Maximum Supply Voltage | 12 Volts |
Mounting Type | Threaded |
Output Type | Analog |
Specific Uses For Product | Oxygen Sensor |
Manufacturer | PremiumpartsWhosale |
Style | Modern |
Item Weight | 9.9 ounces |
Package Dimensions | 6.3 x 4.53 x 2.72 inches |
Item model number | 392103C850, 392103C200 |
Manufacturer Part Number | APOS0402PC |
OEM Part Number | 392103C850, 392103C200, 250-24707, 392103C100, 250-24690 |
Date First Available | February 18, 2019 |
litesabre –
1) The front (upstream bank 1) and the two bottom (downstream bank 1& 2) were fairly easy… the back – upstream rear bank 2 was ridiculous…
a) remove intake manifold – wow (I’ve had to do this three time over the late 240,000 miles twice for plugs – had I know I would have done this then,…
b) removing the exhaust manifold heat shield on the back of the engine was crazy – from the bottom of the car… even after intake was removed – only the phone camera could get back there even after it was removed… the pictures are from the back… I did not take an engine shot until after the intake manifold was back on… I should be grateful – I’m in the south so nothing broke off and i did not have to break my arms to break the bolts – in Canada they would have broken off -salt…
The sensors came in and out fairly easily… you can see they put anti seize copper on the threads of the o2 sensors – thank you kia… I did the same on the reinstall off all the bolts including the heat shield…
*** heat shield must come off before the 22 mm specialty wrench from Harbor Freight could be used to remove sensor… think about renting from oreily or autozone – I may never use that wrench or the kit again – but I do own it now so no worries and half the price of the auto stores…
The bad thing about the south is the heat and humidity… I changed shirts 3 times each day during the 2 days of O2 sensor change out – If I could have done the back one from the bottom I would have – but with the manifold in place you can’t torque spec the sensor… 36-38 ft/lbs as I recall – check with a chilton’s manual…
c) the sensors are a tight fit – definitely need electrical grease or silicone based spray just to get them together… (avoid petroleum based lubricants – they can break down the plastic over time) you have to carefully remove all the strain relieve and cable holders from the old ones – just got back from the junk yard – had to pick up one cable holder and strain relief for the front upstream sensor… easy once you do one. I had to use some channel locks to seat the sensors connector plugs in the wiring harness receptacles… BE GENTLE!!!
d) I just purchased a “FIXD” app and code reader – ~$20 online – the app worked well and the last picture was a custom screen I was able to set up to look at the o2 sensor banks… I’ll have to read the results again…. I was able to clear the engine codes P0420 and P0430… this may be a combination issue… the codes have come back once, but are still out the second time… we’ll see – may use “cataclean” one more time to see if that helps…
e) the good news – when I opened up the exhaust manifold you can see clear into the catalytic converter – the “honey comb” material looked to be intact – unlike other videos I’ve seen – so if the palladium coating is still there and is not covered by too much exhaust soot then there is hope of not changing the catalytic converter… from what I can tell you might have to remove the motor to get to the back one…
I am sure there is more info in my mind from this work… I had to get a clear week to dedicate the time…especially for the back on… ( whole day that one alone).
All the best!
Doug
Kindle Customer –
Wasn’t in the car a month and they went bad
abel ramirez –
Buen producto lo recomiendo