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- 8 ENDS Permanently Repairs Four Cables(6 standard, 2 cam).You needn’t to buy new latch cables, Installs in Just Minutes and Save MONEY!
- ’98-’02 Lincoln Navigator;1992 to 2013 F-Series truck (F-150, F-250, and F-350);1992 to 2013 E-Series Vans (all); ’97 to ’03 Expedition ; The Glass and Door of the rear tailgate for ’03-’05 Explorer; ’92-’13 Ford Ranger; ’97-’04 Mazda B-Series Trucks.
- Fix Door Cables in a Cargo Door, Liftgate, Suicide door, Tailgate, Rear hatch, etc.
- Made from Premium Grade Polished Solid Billet Aluminum 6061 T6. 6 Standard and 2 LOCKING CAM included.
- Door Handle Cable Repair Kit Completely fix all doors of a Ford E series Van.
WMYCONGCONG 5 Kits 2.3mm 8 Pin Way Waterproof Electrical Wire Connector Plug Male and Female for Car Automotive Use
*$315.70
GOOFIT 28.54" Throttle Cable Replacement for 2-Stroke 43cc 47cc 49cc 50cc Mini Pocket Pit Super Dirt Bike Cag Cagllari MAT1 MAT2 Ninja X1 X2 GP MX3
*$301.00
Frete Grátis em todo o BrasilProduto Original Importado dos EUA
8 ENDS Door Cable Repair Kit for F-series, E-series, Ranger, Expedition, Excursion, Navigator (Repairs Four Cables – 6 Standard Ends 2 LOCKING CAM)
*$265.00
Informação adicional
| Manufacturer | Mookis |
|---|---|
| Brand | Mookis |
| Item Weight | 1.76 ounces |
| Package Dimensions | 7.09 x 6.89 x 0.59 inches |
| Item model number | DCE002 |
| Is Discontinued By Manufacturer | No |
| Manufacturer Part Number | DCE002 |
| Date First Available | August 23, 2016 |
Orrin K. –
did the trick
William D. Knight –
These parts allowed me to fix the cables on my ford truck without replacing the entire assembly. But I encountered a major problem. The slot which allows the part to be installed on the cable is not cut deep enough. After it is installed, the cable is not in the center, it is offset which causes the cable to bind and not move freely. I had to use my Dremel tool to make the slot more to the center. See pictures.
Orrin K. –
Très bien
Wild Bill –
99 Ford expedition fits perfectly for my rear door & hatch big change from just plastic I’ve replaced the cable twice wish I found these sooner fast shipping easy to install A+
R. Prosser –
Work Great – Bargain price instead of buying entire cable
These METAL cable ends work perfectly to replace the broken dangerous cheap plastic cable ends. There are instructional videos all over the internet on how to repair this too common of a problem.
If I was King the NHTSA – NATIONAL HIGHWAY TRAFFIC SAFETY ADMINISTRATION – would issue a recall on all Ford E-series vans because of a dangerous safety problem. The problem is that the backseat passenger area door lock handles operate with cables and the cables FAIL because Ford used a cheap plastic cable end connector. When the cable end breaks you cannot open the doors from the inside, or from the outside, to allow the passengers to exit the vehicle. I reported this dangerous safety problem to NHTSA. If enough people report this dangerous condition then NHTSA will force Ford to recall and repair all safety defects.
Wild Bill –
I’ve replaced the door cables in the past when the ferrule’s broke only because it was under warranty. The cost from ford is about $275 each + labor! I’m very happy I found these. They work well. Both my rear doors on my 2006 F-150 Supercab broke within a week of each other. After learning how to remove the panels on Youtube it was fairly simple to repair the broken pieces 3 of the 4 on each door were broken. Just the one inside the door at the bottom wasn’t broken. It was easily crushed with my fingers. It’s disgraceful the truck manufacturer doesn’t install a better performing ferrule. Anyway, I am super pleased so far with the results. I did have to open up the gap slightly on the mounting hardware using a screwdriver shaft, leveraging, to get a few of the ends to pop in place. The tolerances on the ends might be a few thousandths off. OEM plastic/rubber will give when pushing on. Aluminum not so much. Also, I had to use a Dremel to open up a few of the slots to allow the cables to fit. Even with these issues I give them 5 stars. Also, I sprayed all the latches with white lithium grease once it was all put together. The first door took me 2 hours to repair. After that learning curve, the second door was done in about 1 hour. I did not remove the whole assembly. I just unscrewed each latch one at a time, repaired it, then reassembled it.
In the photos you can see portions of the broken ferrules and a few that were completely gone. Unfortunately I didn’t get any photos of the finished pieces.
bcdem –
I’ve had three F-150 extended cab trucks (’97, ’99, and ’06) and all of them had at least one rear door stop working for the same reason. If you have an F-150 extended cab get these, it’s easier to install when you can still open the door.
This worked perfectly for the back doors on my 2006 F-150 extended cab with suicide doors. One door wouldn’t open at all and the boots on the other door fell apart in my hands. I don’t know if mine even came with instructions. Find a tutorial on youtube to see how to remove the door panels on your truck.
You’ll need a flat blade screwdriver, or a plastic prying tool for automotive interiors, to pop the upper panels off around the window. I had to remove 5x 1/4 inch head screws, and 1x 5/16 head screw. You will need a Torx head bit to remove the latches. You will need either an electric driver or a sturdy wrench to remove the latches, they are torqued pretty tightly.
I used a small pair of diagonal cutters to carefully remove the old broken boots.
While you have them apart, a quick spray of WD-40, or some other lubricant/rust inhibitor down the cable sleeves will keep everything moving smoothly.
A pair of slip joint pliers/channellocks will help snap the new boots into the handle and latch assemblies.
stephen m sablan –
Worked great after my husband did some modification so the cable would slide through.
Lucy –
Best way to fix a ford truck with a rear door that will not unlatch. See YouTube how to fixed
Bruce R. –
These save so much money for my mom and grandad, they have a few vans for work and anyone who ever drives a van or uses a work van knows that you open the doors all the time and sooner or later the door will stop opening cause the end of the cable broke because it’s plastic. There’s nothing wrong with the cable at all, just cheap plastic and instead of spending $80+ on a cable replacement kit for the door all you do is cut off the old plastic and and slide the new aluminum one on, I haven’t had any issues at all with any of the cables I’ve repaired, they will outlast the life of the van now
I think I’ve bought 5 packs of these by now, they are amazing
10 out of 10 would recommend