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- Material: Solid copper. Good oxidation and corrosion resistance . High ductility and cracking resistance
- Package includes: 4 x battery terminals, 8 x heat shrink tubes, 8 x copper lugs, 4 x Anti-corrosion pad, 2 x hex wrench.
- Fit for SAE/JIS A Type Auto Battery, such as truck, car, ferry and so on.
- Professional MFG; High quality material; Easy installation.
- For any reason, if you are not satisfied with your purchase, please contact us directly. We offer a year’s guarantee.
New Choke Cable Compatible with EZGO Golf Cart 1994-2013 Replace 25693G04 25693-G04
*$385.00
Replacement Door Upper Latch and Cable Assembly Compatible for Ford Econoline E150 E250 E350 Van 1992-2014 (1, Right Hinged Door(Left40% Upper)) AC2Z-15264A26-B AC2Z15264A26A
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Frete Grátis em todo o BrasilProduto Original Importado dos EUA
4 PCS Military Spec Battery Terminal Connectors Top Post Kit with Cover,Copper Lugs,Heatshrink and Post Washer
*$361.00
Informação adicional
| Color | Black |
|---|---|
| Connector Type | Ring |
| Contact Material | Copper |
| Insulation Material | Polyolefin |
| Terminal | Ring Terminal |
| Material | Copper |
| Brand | RARAYC |
| Temperature Rating | 257 degree fahrenheit |
| Product Dimensions | 4.5"L x 3.3"W x 2.9"H |
| Maximum Voltage | 12 Volts |
| Manufacturer | RARAYC |
| UPC | 709520716445 |
| Item Weight | 15.5 ounces |
| Country of Origin | China |
| Item model number | DZ083 |
| Manufacturer Part Number | DZ083 |
| Date First Available | May 7, 2022 |
Harvey E. –
Fitment is spot on. Works exactly how I wanted it to work. Saves me from having to hunt down a wrench every time I need to disconnect the battery. This was used on a forklift.
adam –
They’re a bit cheap, but they gold up fine and work pretty great for the price. I didn’t use the copper connectors that came with it. They were very flimpys I don’t think they would have help up. I used it to connect my amplify power wire and my front lights power. Makes a cleaner setup and safe.
Saab Dave –
All of the quality hardware you need to do a profesional installation. It was a grwat jvalue for the money , everything in one kit . It makes the battery easy to disconnect.
Roy Stuart –
Well worth it these have saved me a lot of trouble with all the wires on a diesel pusher
MixerMan –
I used these to make a set of parallel cables and they worked just fine. They fit a standard lead battery terminal and clamp down good and tight. I gave three stars because the listing claims that the clamps are copper, and even tries to make a point that competitors are brittle and may fracture. Well, these are made of a gold-anodized pot metal alloy and are brittle and may fracture if you try to compress them too much. To be fair, I could tell from the pictures in the ad that these weren’t copper, and that didn’t really matter much to me, but don’t misrepresent your product in your ads if you want 4 stars.
Amazon Customer –
Work well on my bass boat, as expected. Can be difficult to adjust in tighter spaces. Still a great upgrade over stacking connectors under a wing nut. Makes it easy to switch batteries when out 8 plus hours on the water running multiple electronics.
Christopher F –
I installed this today (negative battery cable only for the moment) on a 2003 Corolla. I chose this design because I had two of the Advance Auto/AutoZone options where you screw the connector shut around the terminal break (the square piece got rounded and I could no longer really tighten it).
The part itself is relatively easy to install, it just takes a little bit of finagling to get the two negative cables properly fed through the connector (the connector is a bit small for the thickness of the cables, but it does work).
As for durability: obviously I cannot comment at this point on how it will do over the long-term, but it seems reasonably durable for the moment. I assumed (and continue to assume) that “military spec” was meaningless marketing jargon when I bought it, but it did have the overall best reviews that I could find for this style.
Several of the reviews refer to this breaking/cracking. I obviously don’t know what happened in these specific cases, but I suspect that in some cases it might be down to an overzealous installation. Remember that it should be totally loose when it is not latched. I would imagine that if I really cranked it down onto the terminal and THEN latched it, it absolutely would break it. I think that the latch should NOT take a lot of force to close; if it seems like you have to muscle it, I would loosen the thumbscrew and try again. Obviously get it tight enough that you can’t easily pull it off the battery terminal, but I wouldn’t go any tighter. I started loose and just kept tightening it, latching it, tightening it some more, and repeating until it was right. I saw no signs of overstress.
In the 2003 Corolla, the fuse box gets in the way of the latch (the latch is too long). You can latch it part way with the latch handle facing up, and then rotate the handle between the fuse box and the battery and latch it the rest of the way. It’s a little bit of tetris, but it definitely works fine for me.
Louisiana Customer –
I bought some more expensive ‘jewelry’ for a friend’s ’79 F-250 starting circuit and second battery. These will be used to clean up connections to the solar power storage batteries in the off-road camper.
These are high quality plus I like the quick connect feature. The four posts for cable lugs are nice too b