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### Descrição do Produto
O Cold Side Intercooler Pipe Upgrade Kit para o Ford 6.7L Powerstroke Diesel (2011-2016) é a solução ideal para quem busca melhorar o desempenho do seu veículo. Com um design robusto e eficiente, este kit é composto por um tubo de alumínio prateado e mangueiras de silicone pretas, proporcionando não apenas uma estética aprimorada, mas também uma performance superior em comparação ao tubo plástico de fábrica, que é propenso a explosões sob pressão.
Este kit apresenta um tubo de alumínio CNC, que é mandril dobrado para garantir um fluxo de ar otimizado. O diâmetro do tubo inferior é de 3 polegadas, enquanto o tubo superior possui um diâmetro de 3,5 polegadas, permitindo uma passagem de ar mais eficiente e reduzindo a restrição. As mangueiras de silicone são triplamente reforçadas, capazes de suportar altas temperaturas e pressões, além de minimizar a transferência de vibrações devido a impactos ou movimentos do motor.
A instalação é simples e pode ser realizada com ferramentas básicas, pois o kit vem com todos os acessórios e braçadeiras necessários. Importante ressaltar que a reprogramação do veículo não é necessária para a instalação deste kit, tornando-o uma opção prática e acessível para quem deseja um upgrade significativo no desempenho do motor.
### Instruções de Uso:
Para instalar o Cold Side Intercooler Pipe Upgrade Kit, siga os passos abaixo:
1. Desconectar a Bateria: Antes de iniciar a instalação, desconecte a bateria do veículo para evitar qualquer curto-circuito.
2. Remover o Tubo Original: Utilize ferramentas básicas para remover o tubo de intercooler de fábrica. Desaperte as braçadeiras e retire o tubo com cuidado.
3. Instalar o Novo Tubo: Posicione o novo tubo de alumínio no lugar do original, garantindo que as extremidades estejam alinhadas corretamente.
4. Fixar as Mangueiras de Silicone: Coloque as mangueiras de silicone nas extremidades do tubo e fixe-as com as braçadeiras fornecidas no kit.
5. Conectar a Bateria: Após a instalação, reconecte a bateria e verifique se não há vazamentos.
### Características do Produto
– Cor: Tubo Prateado e Mangueiras de Silicone Pretas
– Material: Alumínio CNC de alta resistência
– Diâmetro do Tubo: 3″ (Seção Inferior) e 3.5″ (Seção Superior)
– Mangueiras de Silicone: 3″ e 3″ a 3.5″, triplamente reforçadas
– Instalação: Fácil instalação com ferramentas básicas, sem necessidade de reprogramação
– Durabilidade: Capaz de suportar altas temperaturas e pressões, reduzindo a transferência de vibrações
### Perguntas Frequentes (FAQ)
Pergunta: Este kit requer reprogramação do motor?
Resposta: Não, a reprogramação do motor não é necessária para a instalação deste kit.
Pergunta: Quais ferramentas são necessárias para a instalação?
Resposta: Você precisará de ferramentas básicas, como chaves de fenda e chaves de boca, para a instalação.
Pergunta: O que diferencia este kit de outros disponíveis no mercado?
Resposta: Este kit se destaca pelo seu tubo de alumínio mandril dobrado, mangueiras de silicone triplamente reforçadas e pela facilidade de instalação sem necessidade de reprogramação.
Pergunta: O kit é compatível com outros modelos de caminhões?
Resposta: Este kit é especificamente projetado para o Ford 6.7L Powerstroke Diesel de 2011 a 2016.
Pergunta: Posso instalar o kit eu mesmo?
Resposta: Sim, a instalação é simples e pode ser realizada por qualquer pessoa com conhecimentos básicos de mecânica.
Maria c velasquez –
The hole for the air sensor, at least on mine, was a little off which forced me to install the entire tube kind of crooked. But, it’s on there and functioning fine. Took a 400 mile trip pulling a 35′ camper the next day and no boost leaks. I ordered this one, not because it was cheap, but because it was the quickest shipping as I needed to replace the OEM that burst in a hurry. I’ll run it as long as it holds up but I’m not crazy about having it sort of twisted. May have just been mine, but I’ll probably go with a different one if needed in the future. However, if you’re in a pinch, this one has shown me it’ll work, so I’m not gonna rate it poorly and say it won’t do the job.
ed –
I got to this product page from a YouTube video. I’m not certain he used this same kit? For the kit I received, the picture in the AlanV review is correct, but differs from the video and the picture in another review. That said, I installed mine in various ways, that could work and seal, but there would be issues like rubbing a pulley, and the 90 rubber hose being slightly buckled. The layout I show in the pictures gives good clearance, allows the rubber 90 to remain in its molded shape, and for me put the sensor hole right on top, where the wires reach easily.
I saw breaking the tab off of the sensor is a common problem during removal. Since I would be throwing my old pipe away, I used a razor blade to cut the ramp off of my old pipe, so the tab wouldn’t have to be lifted over it.
I installed the oring in the id of the pipe that goes on the throttle body, and fully seated the spring clip. I prefer this to what was shown in the video, either can work. After prepping the oring and clip, push the tb pipe onto the Tb until the clip appears fully seated again. The taper of the tab will push it out until it finds the groove in the tb. Make sure the clip seats all the way around, if not just push a little more on the pipe to allow the clip to seat.
Since I saw in other reviews the supplied clamps are not high quality, I reused the 2 factory clamps in the hardest to reach places, at the intercooler, and the next joint from the intercooler.
Slip the 3.5 to 3” transition hose onto the tb pipe and slide the 2 appropriate new clamps over the hose.
Assemble the 90 hose to the aluminum elbow and place the 2 factory clamps over the elbow leaving everything loose. (See pictures, short end of aluminum pipe to long end of rubber 90). See pictures of clamp positions for these 2 clamps, it’s dark out, best I could do. Jiggle this assembly onto the intercooler, and then to the transition hose.
Before you start tightening clamps, wiggle the pipes and hoses to seat everything to the best twist and depth for flow, seal, and lack of deformation in the hoses.
I personally tightened clamps from the intercooler to the throttle body. Careful with the 2 new clamps at the throttle body. I don’t know what they will take. I did not have trouble since I knew they could be a problem. I tightened them until the springs were ~ half compressed, and then started checking to see if the pipe appeared to move independently from the hose when I pushed it side to side. I did this every few turns of the nut. After they moved as a unit, I think I went another 2 or 3 turns. I did not bury the nut until the spring was collapsed + 10 Ugga duggas
I installed the sensor with the intension of using a fatter oring if necessary. My fit was fine with the stock oring reused. Plugged in the sensor and CEL went out in 3 or 4 drive cycles.
Mary E Burckhard –
Ordered it because we’ll how bad can a couple pieces of aluminum tubing and silicone hoses be? All in all it’s not bad and definitely just as good as the high dollar ones. Fitment needed some adjustments but I got it to work. All the hoses fit fine except the lower silicone needed trimming and the position of the boost pressure sensor sucked. Whoever thought the position of the boost pressure sensor was in the right spot never opened the hood of these trucks. The lower silicone hose definitely needs a redesign. The way it’s shaped is rediculous it isn’t even close the only thing it had going for it was it was a 90° angle.
Dave N. –
Easy to install, no instructions but Youtube offers good video’s to follow to make the process quick. It took me 45 minutes to install with minimal tools needed. I recommend this pipe, this also saved me a lot of money which the dealership wanted to charge $300.00 dollars for the pipe let alone the 2 to 3 hours for installation at a $150.00 hour charge. I have a 2014 f-250 platinum truck (6.7l) diesel, so far no issues to report.
Dave N. –
Received this today and installed. 14 f350 6.7 No instructions but pretty straight forward. Pipe and boots are good quality. Comes with a gasket and clip. Four hose clamps, three for pipe and one larger. The larger one broke when tightening so autozone had a new one. The clamps are trash, should of used the ones off the oem pipe but it was dark and just wanted to get it done. Tested and it held 30psi like a champ multiple times.
Mary E Burckhard –
OEM part was junk plastic BUT it did last 10 years til it blew! The new upgrade was easy-ish to install, a little wiggling n jiggling but I got it! Oh and I am a little bitty gal so ladies.. do NOT be afraid to fix your own! Also seems to have given my “beastie” bigger lungs than before! Love this kit! Don’t forget your temp sensor tho when ordering… I didn’t break the old one but its just nice to have all new parts!